Next we worked on the transom.
If you recall from an earlier closeup picture of the inside of the transom outer skin, the thickness was different. That is the inside was about 3/8 inch and then it "broke" as it went to about 3/16 inch. Thus the inside was of different thickness and we had to build up the thinner part of the inside skin so the Coosa board would be flush. So we laid up several layers of CSM, some 1708 until we approximated the thickness. Then we Epoxied to outer skin (using Cabosil thickened) applied with notched spreader.
Used two layers of 1 inch Coosa Bluewater 26. The first layer of Coosa was screwed from the outside. The second was screwed from the inside. Holes were drilled in transom and Coosa for screws and for escape of excess epoxy.
In the first picture note the piece of steel we used throughout to keep the transom flat. There is a tendency for the skin to bow. It is a barn door roller track.
We used one on the outside and one on the inside along with a third piece of aluminum.
In the last picture you can see several things. The holes in hull have been patched and two holes got fiberglass blocks as we will reuse the through hulls.
The white remaining parts of the liner with the large deck plate holes have subsequently been cut out as you will see later. You may not be able to see, but we glassed the corners of the transom quite well. First we cabo sealed the crack and made a filet. We have used DB170 for almost all of the glassing. Occasionally 1708. Richard and John are the "kids" doing most of the work on this project. How did I get most of the grinding and the kids get the fun part?
You can also see the jigs from my previous build an ENVI Redfish 16 up on the walls.
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