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Old 04-15-2015, 11:27 AM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N. Palm Beach, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfnski View Post
. . . So my question is: what is the best filler/material to use to patch the bolt holes once I remove these heavy stainless brackets? I want to use something that will be easily paintable once I get the transom repainted. . .
I'd drill all the holes oversize, fill 'em with 6-10 epoxy and then redrill. It's easy to apply with a caulk gun, doesn't run when squirted into a horizontal hole, and is strong stuff when cured.

I would consider an alternate and lighter mount scheme however. Your platform is really too high to be useful for swimming without a ladder on it. If it's mounted at the waterline, you really don't need a ladder, and if you mount it on hinges, it can fold up so it's out of the way or easily removable for fishing. I'd make cutouts for the outdrives and drop it down to the waterline mounted on hinges used for bimini tops or engine boxes and support it with ropes from the transom towing eye's. The one on the "Unohu" shown below, which was a very serious dive boat, was supported with chains with bicycle inner tubes used for shock absorbers. Last picture shows a similar but very light "half-assed" platform I made for my boat using stainless tubing and teak planks that worked very well and could be removed in about 2 minutes! The owner of the Unohu later made a similar full platform with square stainless tubing and teak planks that was much lighter than his original 3/4" plywood platform.

However I'd only consider Bennett hydraulic tabs for salt water use. Mine have worked fine for 40 years, except for having to change out the electric control switch a couple of times. The whole concept of depending on a couple of O-rings to keep saltwater away from electric motors makes me nervous!
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