ALTERNATIVE METHODS:
Prepare a metal or composite backing plate cut it in half at the appropriate spot, butter it up with an epoxy adhesive, ( after solvent cleaning/sanding the underside of the deck,) and insert the pieces through the big bore hole for the rod holder's tube. Some sort of 'lift-up fixture will be required to hold the two plates in position until the adhesive sets. If you use 1/4" composite plate the rodholder flange holes can be bored undersized and the backing plate then tapped for 1/4-20 threads.
WELD-MOUNT , BIGHEAD, and others make 'nut-plates' that can be adhesively bonded in place. The nut is free to move around a bit after the nut plate is bonded, reducing fastener/thread alignment problems. I think a backing plate is still advisable
Be very careful to make sure you get the aft/outboard angle on the rod holder tube's bore correct.. aimed too far outboard and the bottom of the tube will hit the sidewall of the liner.
If you have a moment for more research, visit the Professional Boatbuilder magazine website and search for the article I wrote a number of years ago on problems associated with rod holder installation. Do a search by my name, Bruce Pfund.
I suggest avoiding a Py-Hi type access plates if at all possible.
BP
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