Quote:
Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II
. . . When I drill for deck pipe, you are saying to center directly over locker, not just centered port and starboard, correct? That would make sense because the windlass would have to be centered and located aft of the deck pipe, correct? I'm going to take your advice with anchor line recommendations, and thank you for the Bahamian moor explanation. I believe I'm going to skip the bow pulpit for now. The 1977 has had the bow rail removed, yet the 1976 Blank Canvas in my yard here in SC has a beautiful SS original, should I feel the need.
I am so glad to hear that your Etec is a 2007. I have a 2006 and had some serious concerns about it being an early model. I was confused at time of purchase, but I think it was purchased as a left over in 2009, and saw it stamped 06 the next day. I do not know any history of Etecs, and my first ride was with you. This engine is estimated at 275 hours and MINT. Under the cowl she looks brand new. If it's taken care of as described and as well as his vehicles, and as the guys in his high and dry marina describe him, it should be a great engine. However, with the possibility of my first crossing, I could be easily convinced to sell this engine while it is still very marketable. Also, unlike the previous owner, he did not purchase the original (I-Command?) tach/gauge. That was an important part of my interest in your Etec. Thats all for now.
Any chance you will be able to make the crossing with KMoose last week of June/first week of July? I really want to do it!!!
Michael.
|
Hey Michael,
If you're gonna install a windlass to eliminate the need for an anchor wench, I wouldn't go cutting anything till you actually have the windlass. You won't need a deck pipe; a rope pipe will be an integral part of the windlass. There is a triangular gel coated shelf in my anchor locker that's part of the inner liner which includes the bunks, but there is a vertical step that puts that shelf about 4-5" higher than the bunks; the bulkhead forming the anchor locker is wedged in between the bunk surface and deck, and retained by some screws into the vertical step of the inner liner. The bulkhead covers up a ~3" diameter hole that provides access to the bow eye. I think you want the anchor line entering the locker near or slightly forward of the center of that triangular shelf. If it's too far forward, the line will pile up on the flare of the hull; too far aft and it'll fall out thru the bulkhead opening on to the bunks, but I installed a net over the opening to keep the rope in the locker.
For the type of anchoring you're doing, you might want to get a windlass with a clutch so the anchor can free fall instead of being lowered by an electric motor. Of course this probably means you'd have to have someone on the deck to release the clutch. If they make one where you can just push a button at the helm to drop the anchor, you might need a pulpit. The only reason my system works with such a small anchor bracket overhang is that I lower the anchor slowly until it's vertical, at which point it can be allowed to free fall. I haven't tried it, but I think if I just allowed the anchor to fall out of the bracket by itself, I suspect it might pivot about the forward roller and hit the hull on the way down. So if you go that route, you might need a pulpit or at least some SS sheet armor plate on the bow to protect the hull from the anchor!
Although I bought my motor in March of '06, it's listed as an '07 model, which is first year of production. No such thing as an '06 2.6L 150/175/200 model. I actually prefer the earlier model due to it's lower Optimum RPM levels, because you can run props on it that might not spin fast enough on later models! There is a listing of all E-TEC changes made by model and year on the Owners Forum and it shows that very few changes have been made, indicating that the BRP engineers basically got it right the first time! I've had very few problems with mine in over 600 hours, so in your case I sure couldn't justify trading it in just because it's old, unless you want to spend big bucks to get a warranty! The only thing wrong with your motor is that it hasn't been used enough!
If you don't have an I-Command gauge on that boat, that's the first $ I'd spend on it, as those analog tachs are notoriously inaccurate! I'd recommend getting at least one 3.5" and one 2" gauge because some useful parameters are unique to each gauge, The larger gauge also will display fault code info from the EMM in the event of sensor failures, etc. It will tell you what sensor is a problem instead of just turning on a warning light.
As I posted on the gathering thread, I'm considering making the Bahama trip this summer, but if I'm gonna do all the work it requires to properly prepare for that trip, get my passport renewed and spend $300 for a cruising permit, I'm NOT just going to make a 3 hr. run over to West End, which is about like going to Riviera Beach in terms of culture and ambiance! I'm gonna go all the way to the Abaco's (Green Turtle, Guana Cay, Man O'War and Hopetown) to experience the real Bahamas Out Island lifestyle! The problem is finding somebody to run with for at least a week or more. One guy that I ran with years ago is talking about going, but he has less than a week available and only wants to go to Walkers/Grand Cay. Denny