Scotch Brite got it - however, it's impossible to scuff the inner mount as it's TIGHT ! Any ideas for this area as I don't want to have paint come off ?
Also, after the Scott Brite it - should I Primocon prep before the Trilux or, go straight with Trilux ?
As for WHY the transom mount had to be replaced - it really was the gimbal ring that was shot. I never tightened, nor did I ever touch, the (2) nuts that tighten the gimbal ring to the hardened steel, swivel shaft. So, over time, there was play and that play, coupled with the weight of the Bravo 3, and 12 years ( 800 hours ) of use, rounded the gimbal ring.
It really pisses me off, as I have never read anywhere in the Mercruiser shop manual to tighten or inspect the torque of these two nuts. I maintain my motor 100% and this lack of knowledge just cost me a good chunk of change - motor had to come out and then you start to R/R things that are marginal because, when are you going to have the motor out again ?! Think; oil pan, starter, raw water pump, and a perfectly good coupler ( just because it was the aluminum kind as opposed to the steel kind ). I trust the mech who did the work, he's very good and no BS. Mercruiser parts are $$$$. Fair labor is $$$$.
I will say, I have had a really good experience with the i/o, BUT - the annual labor to prep the drive and the non-servicable, need-to-be-replaced parts make an outboard look like a much easier deal.
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