I'm trying to figure out how to keep from having and indent from any difference in fibrglass thinckness between the existing hull and the skins.
So when I make the skins, how much bigger than the area I want to cover do they need to be?
And how much should they overlap the existing glass?
Is it correct in assuming that the skins are to be placed on the inside?
After glassing in a flat skin from the inside, do I cut a peice(s) of mat to the exact same size as cut out area I'm trying to fill? (to incrase the thickness on the exterior to match the hull thickness?)....
Or... can I simplify my process and put a board or form on the outside and just make a skin in place on the inside that I be sure to tuck into the edges of the cutout extreamly well and very wet so the thickness looks right on the outside. (Im saying that keepin in mind, that the inside filler product being pourable, doesnt need to be smooth or even plane on the inside as if you were bonding to a ridgid peice of wood or composite.)
Do I need to glass in or tab them on the out side also or if I prep the outside of the existing glass/hull properly and put them in wet enough will that suffice?
As for the glassing back over the top/cap edge, I was thinking that before I pour I would glass 6" biaxial tape all along the inside top edge of the opening that I would fold back over the top edge after I pour to cap the top edged of the transom. Sound right, make sense?
What kind of glass mat do I need to make the skins?
What type/weight of glass tape should I for the cap edge?
what type of resin should I be using?
After that I assume that I need to sand it, fair it, sand it again and gelcoat it..?
Anybody that wants to chime in and respond to these questions point by point or offer any other advice please do so. Thanks Jeorge and everyone for your insight and help.
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