Tons of good info there. I don't care what you do It is hard to keep the air bubbles out of the resin after mixing. I used to add cabosil to the thin voc infusion resin to thicken it some when I used it for vertical hand lay ups and I would mix it the day prior and let it settle over night and then try to be ez when adding the catalyst before use just to minimize the air bubbles from mixing in the cabosil.
33 mins is not bad, Im surprised it didn't gel sooner. I would also chill the ve resin in the fridge prior to infusion attempts and then pour it in large flat pan to keep it from building heat so fast. After the attempt I would turn on my 65 amp shop heater on and bring the shop up to 90 deg over night to help the cure. I use the word attempt due to I did not seem to have as good of a grip on the infusion as you.
I always used Melamine or Formica and have seemed the edges as you mentioned. It seems like you can get them fairly smooth but it dose show up in the part still slightly. My father in law has a plastic extrusion business and I have got a few pieces of scrap from him to try. It will do 60" wide material and long as you want to run it. His machine will do up to 6 or 8 mm If I remember correctly. I haven't tried this yet but was going to and hope it will work glued down to a backer so I could avoid seems.
One question. Your layup schedule? Just curious why you use the 1808 CSM vs layers of something like stright biax 1700 or 1800. Just wondering how the chop strand dose for the infusion. If it slows the draw rate or speeds it up. Im sure it adds some weight over standard biax in the over all glass to resin ratio but just curious what your take is on this?
Also, Like the Airtech hub. Looks like it would be easier to reuse than the 2 piece hubs.
Thanks for sharing all your info...
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