Thanks guys.
My assumption on the transom thickness is for the goal of having it 3" thick. This is not the case? The Merc 150 4S motor drawing shows 3.1" for transom thickness and the Zuke 140 is 3.0. Are those the maximums possible? I will go with the residents here with the actual experience. Saves me a sheet of Coosa for other applications then! I will skip the glass in between sheets too since that was solely to gain thickness.
1708 vs. 17 oz. cloth debate. I know it will require more resin for the 1708. I have read 1708 is easier to work with, especially for a noob, than the 1700 since it is stitched and holds it form better. I do have some practice materials to play with. I just haven't yet. I will before making that decision then. Also, the 1708 being thicker allows for less layers to get that corrugated cardboard effect for strength. Just go with more 1700 layers instead?
My description of the splashwell sucks, but I cannot figure out how to explain it. Again the drawings for the motor show distances of 23.7" and 22.5" respectively for clearance from the transom when the motors get fully tilted up. I wanted to give it a little extra space so the cowling won't touch so figured 25" for the front splashwell wall from the transom. Pictures would be worth a thousand words here so maybe I will do a mockup with cardboard to show what I am thinking.
I could slide the gas tank as far forward as possible and put the batteries elsewhere. Is that a better plan? I figured the weight distribution would be the same either way, but it could be better to have the batteries forward away from water at the transom. The tank is built and sitting between the stringers now, but not secured yet.
I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions and want to get this as close to right the first time as I can. It would suck to go through the whole process for it not to ride right or realize I enclosed an area I need to be able to access and have to redo things. So lots of questions first. Measure twice, cut once.
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