36v 112lbs 60” shaft…
Do not get auto deploy, the linear drive units fail at a pretty
Regular rate.
Use a 36v lithium battery - Dakota has the best available.
Lithium batteries are the way to go - you’re using wet cells costing approx $150 each, need 3,thats $450 you’re gonna need a 3 bank charger along with a plug for it - you’re looking at $275/$300 for the quality brands.that’s about $750/$800. Depending on use, you’re gonna kill those batteries quick,maybe 2 seasons, then another $500 for batteries…
Lithium - yes the initial expense is greater , but, most offer 10/12yrs warranty on that battery.
Do the math
3’battwriea take up some room, one 36v doesn’t ….
I’ve got the unit I mentioned - always go for a heavier unit ! Yep, the 80lbs will work, but get in heavy current and try to hold structure…
Use a heavy duty “quick release” bracket - use the rubber bushing that come with the motor under the “puck”,when mounting it.
The heading sensor will need to be connected to 12v and fused correctly.
Plugs - the cheap “twist” style will not hold up. Junction blocks are not a bad idea, to avoid the common plug corrosion. Attach and heat shrink seal the connectors on the trolling motor power cord , attach these to the junction blocks below the foredeck. Easy enough to undo, when you want to remove the trolling motor.
You need to power the trolling motor correctly, do not use a small guage wire for power and ground - the volt drop will be a factor and the amp carrying will to. Use 6g marine grade tinned thru out . “Jump” wires to series the batteries, and power to 70a breaker. Use a quality breaker, not the cheap ones.
Run your cabling in a chafe resistant weave - see attached pics.
Owner of this rig - he opted for orbital batteries,long wait for lithium he wanted to fish.
Note the pic of the cheap breaker ? This boat was factory rigged for a trolling motor. The rigging wasn’t used ! Boat was 2020 and the connectors were not heat shrink sealed, the cabling wicked moisture and the cheap automotive cabling was corrode internally.
That breaker in the picture, it was in the bilge,midship.those breakers fail on a regular basis.use a quality breaker,sized accordingly.
A good corrosion inhibiting spray is recommended , I like ans use merc corrosion guard, on all connections.
Trolling motors require “clean” voltage and amperage - the system needs to be done correctly , for best operation …
The “jump” cabling - its color coded, this avoids confusion when redoing connections.remember, batteries are “series” connected, to increase voltage
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do not let common sense get in your way
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