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#1
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All,
When I bought my 23 footer several seasons ago there were a couple of cracks in the aluminum t top frame. I had them repaired by a pro (who would not guarantee the work because he did know what caused the cracks in the first place). Anyway I can be pretty hard on the boat (after all, it is a SeaCraft) and after a rough ride the other day I noticed that the cracks had reappeared. For now I have taped them up with a lot of electrial tape. I am thinking that at some point down the road I will have to replace the entire t top. I want to hold off on this for as long as possible. Also, I don't want to spend another $450 getting a pro welder back here. This leaves just me trying to either solder/weld it by myself ("danger, danger"). According to some things that i have read on the Internet I should be able to do this with a propane torch and some special compound. I read (you can also see it in the attached online video) web page that yousimply heat up the aluminum and then put the rod material on the heated up aluminum. Does anyone out there have any practical experience with this sort of thing? I would greatly appreciate any feedback. Thanks, Peter
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...iseacraft3.jpg |
#2
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Where are the cracks. Maybe you could add some more support somehow to keep this from occuring again. I think if a professional welded it and they came back, no magic compound is going to work. But if you try it let us know how it works.
Good luck.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#3
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Ok (Bryan & everyone else)
I bought this product web page from a good ole Texas boy. How can I go wrong?? I will take some before, during and after pictures and share them with the CSC team. Wish me luck (I will need it).
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...iseacraft3.jpg |
#4
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Good Luck, again.
![]() If it works I might try it to repair some snap holes in my windsheild. Looking forward to the pictures.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#5
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I have used it on my Aluminum boat to repair some holes that
were previously drilled. It takes a little practice to work with. Structural welding is another story with this product. I would strongly recommend finding another fabricator to beef-up what you have. Take some close up pictures of your top, so we can see where the breaks are occuring. Don at Pipe Dreams Marine, or someone else on this site should be able to see the weak point. See ya, Ken
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See ya, Ken © |
#6
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Peter..If you can haul it to me Exit 25 (GSP)or Gas and a 30 pak.... I'll fix it for free (CSC member discount) Saturday's are best..
PS... When I'm done it won't break again..
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Don Battin Pipe Dreams Marine "Design her right, Build’er well Bend the throttles, And let’er eat…." Carl Moesly |
#7
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Don,
I don't know how I can say no to your very generous offer. We will work something out. Thanks, Peter
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...iseacraft3.jpg |
#8
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Peter.. If you can get it to my shop I can take care of it this weekend. My rig is booked up on road work for a few weeks. Give me a call 609-485-6607 during the day and we can make some plans.
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Don Battin Pipe Dreams Marine "Design her right, Build’er well Bend the throttles, And let’er eat…." Carl Moesly |
#9
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Seacrafts helping seacrafts. I love CSC.
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__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#10
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Peter -
for what it's worth, the top's cracking, and then re-cracking after the repair, was not a workmanship thing, but a design weakness, IMHO. Stress is a real, but often slow, killer, of mechanicals. 90 degree corners aren't good, triangulated support is very good. I'm betting Don can a) fix the welds, and b) suggest a little support, a few gussetts, or whatever, to improve the design, so that it never cracks again. and if you're busting T-Tops, how are your knees ? ![]() all the best Bill |
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