REBUILD-DECK HATCHES

[ltdan]

THE SAGA CONTINUES,I RECORED ALL MY HATCHES IN MY 23CC PROJECT THIS PAST WEAK. GOT TO USE A FRIEND'S SHOP TO DO THE WORK IN. BROUGHT THEM ALL HOME TODAY,,, BOY DO THEY LOOK GREAT,,THERE READY FOR PRIMER AND PAINT WHEN I CAN GET IT IN AT WILDFIRE MARINE IN STUART FLA. I USED P.V.C. HIGH DENSITY 6# FOAM CORE. WHEN DONE PROPERLY,THE STUFF IS UNBELIEVEABLY STRONG. THE CENTER HATCH IS 100" X 30", IT TOOK TWO PEOPLE TO LIFT. NOW I CAN LIFT IT OVER HEAD BY MYSELF, AND IT'S AT LEAST AS STRONG. LT DAN

[Briguy]

How did you strip out all of the old coring material?

[Matt1121]

A chainsaw?....Nah...that she only be used on foam around gas tanks. He probably chipped out the old wood coring in those hatches with a jackhammer! [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

Just teasing, Lt. Dan. Send us some pics of your progress. Can't wait to see how she is coming out.

Ed

[Matt1121]

A chainsaw?....Nah...that she only be used on foam around gas tanks. He probably chipped out the old wood coring in those hatches with a jackhammer! [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

Just teasing, Lt. Dan. Send us some pics of your progress. Can't wait to see how she is coming out.

Ed

[ltdan]

NAH,,,I HAD TO DO THIS ONE THE OLD FASSION WAY [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
CAPT BRIAN, I'VE GOTTA SAY,,,IT'S ITCHY TOUGH WORK! SET THE DEPTH ON YOUR SKILL SAW TO JUST THE RIGHT DEPTH. CUT THE BACK OFF AT THE EDGE OF THE CORE. STRIP THE BACK OUT AS BEST YOU CAN WITHOUT DAMAGING THE ACTUAL SKIN.GRIND ALL IMPERFECTION'S,AND HIGH SPOT'S UNTILL RELATIVELY FLAT. REGLASS THE WHOLE BACKSIDE WITH 16OZ WOVEN FIBERGLASS.COVER WITH PLASTIC,PUT ON A CUT TO FIT BOARD AND WEIGHT IT DOWN WITH OLD BATTERIES/CINDER BLOCK'S. USING THE CORE OF YOUR CHOICE(P.V.C. HIGH DENSITY 6# FOAM CORE FOR ME), I LEFT ABOUT AN 1" GAP ALL AROUND THE EDGE,CUT IT TO FIT AND THEN BEVEL BACK THE EDGE. USING CABOSIL AND RESIN AS AN ADHESIVE,TROWEL IT ON TO THE BACK SIDE,PLACE THE CORE ON IT, PLACE A CUT TO FIT BOURD ON TOP OF THAT(IF USING FOAM)AND WEIGHT IT DOWN HEAVILY. THAT HATCH NEED'S TO BE SITTING ON A CLOSE TO PERFECTLY FLAT SURFACE. WHEN I SAY CLOSE,,I MEAN REAL CLOSE. THEN GLASS THE BACK SIDE THE SAME WAY AS BEFORE. WHEN IT START'S TO SET UP,COVER WITH PLASTIC,SET THE CUT TO FIT BOARD AND WEIGHT HEAVILY. MAKE SURE YOU LAP THE FIBERGLASS ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGE AND UP THE LIP. IT ADD'S STRENGTH. 24 HOUR'S BETWEEN EACH FASE FOR CURING IS MORE THAN ENOUGH. IF YOUR CLOSING OFF ANY PIE HOLE'S OR DAMAGED AREA'S,BE SURE TO GRIND THE EDGE AROUND IT REAL THIN.CUT 1 OR 2 PIECE'S OF GLASS A LITTLE BIGGER THAN THE HOLE AND PUT THOSE IN FIRST,,,,BEFORE YOU GLASS THE FIRST TIME. THE LAST STEP IS TO GRIND THE EDGE BACK TO THE PROPER DEPTH OF YOUR FLOOR'S LIP THAT HOLD'S THE HATCH(MINE'S 1"). THEN FARE AND SAND THE TOP SIDE TO GET READY FOR PRIME AND PAINT. IF YOUR JUST RECORING,AND YOUR NOT CLOSING ANY HOLE'S, YOU SHOULD BE ALL SET TO THROUGH THEM BACK IN THE BOAT,,,,, THAT'S IF YOU DIDN'T BLOW IT UP USING A CHAINSAW TO CUT THE FOAM AROUND THE FUEL TANK THAT YOU MAY OR MAY NOT BE THINKING ABOUT REMOVING [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] THE WHOLE PROCESS TOOK ABOUT A WEEK AND TWO TWELVE PACK'S OF MICH LITE [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
LT DAN

[EBEACH]

LT DAN, You can name your boat: Blood, Sweat & Beers [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[Finster]

I would think a chainsaw........I couldn't pass up on that one [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[ltdan]

EXCELLENT IDEA EBEACH [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img] LT

[bobfish21]

boy does this bring back memories!did the same job on my tsunami,used 3/4 marine ply to recore,and west sysyem epoxy and wovenroving cloth.mostly trial and error,as i didnt know about this great website,but I can probably park a car on my decks now!