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#1
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Have 2 (one each gunnel now) swivel rod holders for 130 lb class gear to target gian bluefins, with another 2 to be added. The gunnels have between 1.5 to 3 inches of wood/glass underneath plenty good. However they flex too much for my liking, considering some knees/bracing underneath in a couple spots...i cold use a bottom metal brace for each rod holder and punch out for 2 screws thru the side of the hull, but that is not pretty
![]() Any reason to not brace the gunnel or comments on my winter plan?
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--------- 1977 Seacraft, Armstrong Bracket 275(chipped 250!) Verado Merc Rev 4 17P |
#2
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If you're planning on putting repeated outboard torquing stress on the gunwale, like 100+ lb fish pulling on rods without reducing the pull via the reel drag, you had better build knees for it. If you glass them pretty, and put holes through them, you can disguise them as glassed-in under the gunwale rod racks.
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Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft ![]() (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
#3
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Sounds like you have enough beef under the gunnel. I have a couple of knees besides my swivel holders but I'm also considering a U- clamp around the base of each one. However, instead of bolting thru the hull, why not glass in some backing (3/4 plywood?) and then tap into that. I've seen that done and imagine it would be strong enough.
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#4
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Sounds like a good idea.Also backing plates under the gunnels wouldn't hurt.If you think about a 500 pound fish and 25+ pounds of drag on a bentbutt staight up and down for an hour or who knows how long thats alot of stress on a few bolts in some wood.The plates help spread the load instead of popping the rod holder out of the gunnel.
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tyler 1988 20cc |
#5
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I do have backing plates on the swivels now, just when test the bent but rods it has me worried since there is no bracing and way more flex in the gunnels than like. it is limiting reel drag which sort of defeats having this setup . I as well bought the u bolt clamps, and observed another seacraft that was for sale had thru bolted out the hull side with ss finishing countersinks (screwhead on hull outside). Not wanting to mar the hull prettyness think am going to brace/knee then. although i like the idea of glassing wood to the hull and screwing into that for the u clamps as an alternative worth exploring. I may do both in the spirit of structural integrity now better than a torn up gunnel later.
The winter boat work-list grows ![]() thanks guys...
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--------- 1977 Seacraft, Armstrong Bracket 275(chipped 250!) Verado Merc Rev 4 17P |
#6
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Josh, let's ask around, between us we know a bunch of commercial tuna guys here on the cape with seacrafts and 130s. One thing I've noticed is alot of them have the swivel holders up in the bow
Steve
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"why are you buying such an old boat?" 1974 SeaFari V6 i/o, 1965 Bowrider 19' i/o, 1975 Sceptre 23' i/o, WS Tarpon and Hobie kayaks, 12' Starcraft tin boat |
#7
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The bow is definatly the place to put the rod holders. Then just glass some 3/4 plywood on its edge underneath the gunnel to help with the flexing. Make it in strips about 3"-4" tall and run the width of the gunnel on each side of the holder. Definaltly put a backing plate on the holder too.
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#8
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I have taken pictures of my 23SF's knees and brackets. I didn't install them, and they look bad, but they work. FYI - The bolts are screwed into the liner not all the way thru the hull to the outside. The original owner was a charter captain with similar issues probably with heavy gear putting pressure outboard of the boat. And/or just to beef up the the cap with normal wear and tear of a 1979 Jackshafted diesel that was used daily! Here are the oversized pictures(sorry for the large size!): ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Snookerd |
#9
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I have one swivel rod holder mounted in the bow of my 23 CC. When I re built her in 01-02 I removed the cap and removed the lamination replacing with all plywood I did get a little flex deep dropping with a 10 lb. weight and a approx 150 lbs. shark snagged in the tail dragging his ass up from 600 but not much. Another thing to consider is how long are your rods??? Remember the longer your rod the more pressure will be put on the rod holder (Leverage). Maybe its time to buy some new shorter rods.
FellowShip . Just for the Grins Official Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner |
#10
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Thanks for the pics and ideas! These are 130lb class rods/reels with 12" bent butts for going after medium and giant bluefins, north of 200lb fish. The tuna Steve caught on spinning gear last weekend on board was a small fellow at around 175-200 estimated
![]() Nothing out of ordinary as to length of rods. Certainly no need to replace them ! [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] And not at 400-600 a rod. The bow swivel location is really about fighting a fish without worry of the line hitting the prop during the fight. You won't be trolling from the bow. If kiting or live-lining or chunking I guess could use the bow swivel location. Adding a swivel up front does make sense so will do so this winter. Good boat handling no reason to not fight out of the current swivels though. So imo I have no choice but 2 address the gunnel flex issue. The murphy factor still lives that someone on the boat slides the drag lever up when being spooled in current swivels. Before I stop them. Hell it could be me in the tuna fever throes of not wanting to lose a big fish. These gunnels already have betwen 1.25 near transom, and 2 inches+ of wood/glass layering next to console. Somewhere in the past someone went way over-kill on the gunnels already! The swivels have ss backing plates now of note. They still flex outboard. It was obvious with Steve when we put some simulated outboard weight and drag, that the flex was way more than the comfort zone and in the battle with a big fish needing say more than 25lbs drag that 130's can throw down, would be seriously problematic. Net is gotta solve the outside flex issue no way around it. Looks like bracing/knees and u clamps are the way to go. And those pics are not ugly! Its under the gunnels! Someone being the critic on that had better be a good swimmer! The 23 in chatham looked at had stainless countersinks thru the outside hull,ss bolts with head outside of hull in the countersink, to the u shaped clamps on bottom of swivel holders, and seemed to solve both problems at once (clamping the bottom of swivel and bracing the gunnel). The pretty solution as far as no outside of hull is going to be more work I guess. -Josh
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--------- 1977 Seacraft, Armstrong Bracket 275(chipped 250!) Verado Merc Rev 4 17P |
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