Getting started... 1975 20' sf

[DaveE]

I've been following Strick, Will, Billy the Kid and several other restoration posts and the work has been outstanding. For better or worse the level of detail has got me feeling confident enough to have a go at some work on my baby.

First, a little history:
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[Capt Chuck]

Here's Some Picture Help Capt Duke. I sent you a PM









OLD Fuel Tank Removed


Fuel Tank Coffin


Rotten Transom


Port Stringer



Starboard Transom Rot


Port Side Transom Rot


Sanded bare glass


Aft Port Corner


Aft Starboard Corner


Rotted Center Stringer


Notched Center Stringer


Aft Looking Forward

[DaveE]

Thanks for the help Capt Chuck. I think I finally got this pic thing figured out...


A pic of one happy kid, fishing off of North Miami Beach a few years back.

I have a question regarding the deck. As you can see from the pics in my first post above, the boat sits a little above the red waterline stripe. With the rear seats and bilge access hatches removed I ran a level from the existing deck to the transom and discovered that the deck level is currently 1/2" above the red stripe, so maybe I only have to raise the deck level 1 or 1 1/2" to drain the cockpit though the transom. Also, I had originally planned to close the transom and put a bracket on the back, but I'm having second thoughts due to some performance questions I've seen raised and finances.

[DaveE]

I also have a question regarding the 2 x 4 center stringer. The first 3 or 4 feet have some rot (the end closest the transom) and I've already cut back the fiberglass skin, so I'd like to epoxy coat another piece and replace it. Can I do that for only the first few feet where the wood is rotten and fiberglass over it, overlapping the fiberglass over the remaining glass? Would this destroy the structural integrity of the center stringer? I suspect that most of the center stringer strength is derived from the fiberglass. Has anyone else attempted this repair?

[zach]

I have a question regarding the deck. As you can see from the pics in my first post above, the boat sits a little above the red waterline stripe. With the rear seats and bilge access hatches removed I ran a level from the existing deck to the transom and discovered that the deck level is currently 1/2" above the red stripe, so maybe I only have to raise the deck level 1 or 1 1/2" to drain the cockpit though the transom.

Personally, I'd err on the side of caution and go at least 1.5", probably 2" – 2.5”. You never know how your weight will be distributed when you're on the boat, and it’s nice to never have to worry about your boat's self bailing capabilities. Are you planning on replacing the deck or just raising your old one?

Also, I had originally planned to close the transom and put a bracket on the back, but I'm having second thoughts due to some performance questions I've seen raised and finances.

Couple thoughts here. First, are you planning on getting a new engine? Typically, if you enclose your transom and add a bracket, you'll need a 25" shaft and it looks like you've got a 20" shaft.

Second, general sentiment is that the pros of a bracket outweigh the cons. I am just finishing my 20 and I added a bracket. Friday, I'll see for the first time how it sits in the water and in two Fridays I'll be able to run the boat for the first time with the bracket. To say I'm anxious to see its performance is an understatement. The bracket allowed me to add hatches and a transom livewell, in addition to the extra deck space. I dive a fair amount as well, and getting in and out of water with a bracket is much easier.

Brackets have been debated many times on this board, as I’m sure you’ve seen. PM me in a couple weeks if you’d like to know how it turned out for me. By then, I will have run the boat and should have a good idea.

[DaveE]

starting to get back into this project, cut a luan plywood template and traced out on 2 pieces of 3/4in. coosa



dry fit on the transom


laminated with epoxy resin mixed with cabosil and milled glass fibers and a layer of 1708


next day, unclamped transom and cleaned up some over flows from sides and weep holes, a note to those of you who use power tools, notice what a clean cut my Dad's table saw made on his left hand. He has worked in wood and metal machine shops for almost 60 years and about 7 years ago, he was ripping a piece of cedar when it kicked back into his stomach, he instincttively reached forward with his left hand to keep from falling into the blade ( he hated to work with the blade guard). After several months and grafts, infections, etc. he started to feel better, although he still misses his fingers when trying simple things like buttoning a shirt or tying shoes. He is a very special man to my whole family and he came close to losing everything. Please be careful with your tools, even the ones you've used 1,000 times can produce unexpected situations.



started laying out transom cap curve ala Strick (if I'm real lucky it'll turn 50% as good as his)

[strick]

Keep at it.... looking good. Wasn't that fun removing those rear seats and bait well?

strick

[DaveE]

Actually it wasn't too bad, thanks to you and others I kinda knew what I was up against. Still required a cold chisel and hand sledge hammer. I've still got the battle to pull the lower deck to look forward too.

[thehermit]

I like to affectionately refer to that putty shown on the back of your inner skin as “Potters putty”. Tough to break, tough to remove and even tougher to grind….urghhh! NICE WORK

[Dilligaf]

"laminated with epoxy resin mixed with cabosil and milled glass fibers and a layer of 1708"...

thats between the 2 layers of coosa right... what does that do?hold them together?