Transom problems

[HenryValdez]

Hello. Today while replacing the batteries on my 20CC I found that the transom on the left side (looking from the back of the boat is rotting. The part by the aluminum strip going across the cutout for the motor is cracked from the outside down into underneath the left hand seat in the back.

I know the eventual fix is to replace the transom (which I dread the expense of). I have some bondo or could use some type of sealant like caulking and then install a couple of "braces". These would go from the transom to the inside wall where the seats rest. I hope I'm not too confusing in my description.

Question: Is this a viable temporary solution? Is Bondo better than the caulking? What else could I use that would seal? Help!! I don't want to have to put a lot of work and money into this old classic. Suggestions PLEASE!!

Henry

[KenB]

The classic way to test a transom is to pull down (or jump on) the prop of a tilted motor. Should not move at all. More than 1/2 inch is a problem.

For a temp solution, you can inject "thinned epoxy" such as CPES or git rot. I got the 2 gallon kit, but the next size down may be enough, plus syringes, and the small sized west systems epoxy kit.

How handy are you with epoxy? Injecting takes a day or two, and it's not too hard.

*Obviously, the best thing is to pull the motor and redo the transom. And from experience I can tell you that if you inject epoxy now you will make life hard for whoever decided to redo the transom later. From my experience, immensely harder.

1. Start by drilling a few 1/8" holes at the bottom and top of the transom. Angle them downward on the top, and only drill through one side of the transom (i.e. either inside skin or outside skin, not both). Hopefully no water comes out.

If the wood is sopping wet...
2. Use a 60cc syringe to inject acetone into the top holes until you see it "weep" out of the bottom holes.
3. Wait a day or two for the acetone to dry. Apparently you can dry with a hair drier or air gun, but I waited a day to be safe.

If the wood is not wet, or once it is dry:
4. Mix up the CPES and start injecting into the top holes.
5. Once the CPES starts weeping from the bottom holes, plug them. I used a dowel sanded into a cone/point.
6. Keep injecting, go from one hole to the next, you will be amazed at how much volume you end up injecting. Also, don't go too fast.
7. Eventually, the wood will be saturated.
8. Bake@350 degrees for 3 hours or until skin is lightly brown and toasted. Just kidding. Takes about a day for the CPES to set up.

AFTER CPES CURES
9 Drill out all holes, and fill with epoxy/fillet.
10. paint.
11. For the alum stuff, I would just use 5200.

AGAIN, I ADVISED REDOING THE WHOLE TRANSOM, NOT INJECTING, from personal experience.

[Caymanboy]

You are delaying the enevitable, bondo will do you absolutly no good, other than to cover a bigger problem. You could remove as much as the rotted wood as you can, dry out, and fill with Sea Cast or another type of epoxy, this will do nothing for the areas you can't see or access, that area will continue to crack, eventually you will need to replace the transom. good luck.

[Captainkass]

Hey Henry,
I know the feeling Had to replace mine also, but well worth the money and time as for costs a fiberglass shop proberly will charge about 2,000 to 3,000 dollars but you can do the work your self for less.

[Ryank]

I feel ypur pain having had several boats that needed transoms over the years. I had a 20 seafari that had a bad transom and some very noticeable flex. I can tell you I had a T top place in Tarpon Springs custom make an aluminum plate on the back of the tansom and and a smaller plate inside, this stopped all flex and I used the boat for several years of hard use before selling to someone who wanted to restore her. He ended up leaving the transom alone last I heard. While this is by no means a replacement for redoing the transom properly , it could help if $ is tight for the time being depending on how bad yours is.

[HenryValdez]

Thank you all for the suggestions regarding the transom. While I agree that it would be best to replace it, I like the custom plate inside and out idea because $ are tight in today's world. I believe I'll look into that first. As much as I'd like to, no way can I see spending $2000=$3,000 to get it done. I really like the boat, I'd have to pass on spending that much. I hope the plate idea will work. By the way, how thick should it be? Anybody?

Thanks to all.

Henry

[wtenglish]

Henry, I have a plate that I just removed from my 20' SF that may be what your looking for. Check out the second pic on my post and if your interested let me know.

[HenryValdez]

Will, I didn't see any pics on your post. Can you send to hvaldezz@aol.com? I am interested in getting the plate. Thanks, and regards to all on the board for help.

[HenryValdez]

Will, I found the pics, would be interested in the plate(s). Send me a message. Thanks.