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#1
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I've been looking at trim tabs and brackets now for about a year. One thing I've noticed is that all the brackets I've seen don't appear to extend out to the far edge of the boat(about a foot narrower than the boat). This is where most of the trim tabs are placed.
It seems like you could get more flotation if the brackets were designed to go to the edge. If this was the case, could trim tabs be mounted on the back of the bracket? I've got a idea about a bracket that I think I'm going to try and build this spring/summer. I've got a Stainless Marine bracket that I will use as a base/and a mount for the motor(so I know it won't fall off LOL). Attached to that will be an aluminum frame covered with luan/glass/epoxy and filled with flotation foam. The bracket will follow the exact outline of the back/bottom of the boat. It may even extend a little past the engine mount for added flotation. With that I may not even need tabs, but if I do I may try to mount those at the rear of the bracket. Any thoughts or do you think I'm crazy.
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Worry less, Fish more! |
#2
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You lost me somewhere. You've got a bracket but you want to build another to get more flotation? And then attach trim tabs to it?
As far as building a bracket that follows the hull contour I would advise against. By doing that you it could be said that you are extending the hulls running surface and you don't know how it will effect the performance boat. Personally I think SeaCraft got it right the first time and I wouldn't mess with what works. And ,I wouldn't attach anything to the bracket that dosent belong especially below the waterline. Its an invitation to corrosion with dissimilar metals (stainless screws and aluminum bracket). My verdict--- Mount the bracket if you wish, but don't re-invent the wheel. Or in Jimmy Buffets words "Keep it simple , stupid" [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] |
#3
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pogden
Quote:
Quote:
Don't forget that you get the most effeciency with the tabs extended as far to the edge not aft! Also the tabs control Port/Starboard level as well [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] You asked for comments ao that's just my .02. Help me out guys! Tabman? Mark?
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#4
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Dave,
The Stainless bracket has very little if any flotation. I was just trying to do anything except put out 3000.00 for a armstrong/seamark bracket. I forgot about the corrosion problems between metals in salt water, very good point. As far as following the hull, I figured that would be the least negatory affect on the performance...but really I don't know anything about brackets, etc. I don't ever argue with Jimmy, he seems to know what he's talking about [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Chuck, Unfortunately the Stainless bracket has very little flotation, so I was just trying to get as much as I could. I figured the tabs on the back of the bracket wouldn't be any different than on the stern with out a bracket. But thinking about it they would be further away and fighting a fish could be a big problem!!! This is on a 78 MA and you know they are pretty stern heavy. I have a line on a 2002 Mercury 200 for a pretty decent price, so I am a little concerned about the extra weight. I won't get the motor if I can't get a decent bracket....hmmm I know where ther is a brand new armstrong bracket(less than a mile away) that has been lying on the ground for close to a year and a half, the grass is kinda high right around the bracket and I bet this guy would never miss it( hell for at least another year or two). Nahh who would I drink beer with then. Priorities Thanks for the input guys I am fairly new at real boats, (all the little skiffs I had as a kid don't count).
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Worry less, Fish more! |
#5
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pogden,
You are correct in your thinking that the Tabs would have to be on the end of the bracket if it were designed as a "hull extention" by mimicing the hull bottom. but like the guys said, that is going to create issues on its own. If you do end up putting a conventional bracket on the boat, lets look at squeezing big Tabs to get the most lift we can ot offset some of the stern weight. Let me know what you do and I will be delighted to assist in specing the Tabs for the boat. Tom McGow Bennett Marine |
#6
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Tom,
I will definitely contact you when I get tabs. You and your company are without a doubt A+++. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Pat
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Worry less, Fish more! |
#7
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Pat I think your starting at the wrong end on this. Get the boat restored or in shape to handle that big motor first, just my opinion...........you can tell me to shut up everyone else does.
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http://lecharters.com '76 23 SC CC I/O '86 20 Aquasport 200 '98 15 Boaton Whaler Dauntless There's more but w/e |
#8
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Chris,
Shut up.
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Otto And yes, I still believe in the four boat theory... |
#9
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A friend of mine did sort of what you are describing to two separate 20's. He had a bracket designed and built which extended the hull's running surface and was full-width. It even had the chines from the hull molded in and drain plugs (2, 1 for the bracket, 1 for the hull plumbed to the "real" transom.). Bracket aft end was about 4" above waterline, he then mounted small tabs on the aft side of the "extended" transom. The boats were beautiful, he had a 225 on one and has a 150 on the other. Both boats are in Stuart (I passed one going to Islamorada today) His name is John Vance, president of Jim Smith Boats. (772-286-1172 if you want to ask some questions. Total length was just under 23'. they floated very well, no wet feet. The loads on the new running surface are substantial, so I don't think you can do what you are describing by "glueing" on some buoyancy to the sides of a single-wide bracket. I rode in the first one, it performed flawlessly...
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#10
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Chris, I'm just thinking... instead of working. But I know I can do this bracket thing and it will work. The bracket (the other Tom) described is just how I want to do it, I want to mold it onto the existing hull, following the same lines of the hull. But yeah I have a lot of crap to do first...transom, rewire, bilge, new controls and steering. That a ton of crap for a slow old man, but I love the smell of epoxy, it keeps the beer cost down. BTW, This motor comes with wiring, controls, prop, and oil tank.
I would never tell you to shut up, maybe STFU [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] and that's only because your'e my bud [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] Now if only I could have talked you into building a big gargage instead of that big useless house we would have been set. Big Beer Miester and a plasma screen TV is all you would have needed extra. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] Otto you have to come down, you would have a good time. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Other Tom, I almost forgot, thanks very much for the name and number,(and inspiration [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]) I will give him a call and try to get a pic and some info. Take Care.
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