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#1
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Ok guys whats the best for floor and transom. Coosa, Nidacore somthing else? I know about the cost differances. My son may be running this boat in 30 yrs and I want it to last.
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#2
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Everything can be a personal preference. I re did my boat back in 2001 and used marine plywood. Today if I was going to do the Best material for 30 + more years without re doing I would probably use Coosa on the transom but on the deck because of screws not through bolted on a CC 23 footer I would probably use two materials for the lamination a strip of marine plywood 8” wide closes to the center line for screwing the CC and T-top into with sheet metal screws and the rest of the deck your choice of composite material which would not require any attachments screws. I will be 60 yrs soon and only got approx 10 more years before I will be forced to let her go so the plywood will last longer than my owner ship will.
![]() FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins ![]() |
#3
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Fellowship,
On a un-related topic.... I caught your TV commercial for the first time last week. CLASSIC! Way to go!
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__________________________________________________ ________________ 1974 23SF |
#4
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__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#5
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i just bought some Coosa Bluewater 25 from Fisherman Supply in New Orleans, had it shipped directly from Coosa to me. It cost a couple of hundred more than marine plywood but i figure that the cost is minimal considering i do not have to mess with the transom every again. Cost of glass , resin, labor would make this difference even smaller.
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#6
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Ha Hermit
Thanks for the complement I just wanted to broadcast Classic SeaCrafts the best way I could. And as for you Bryan, Can’t a guy feel sorry for himself around here?? Boy this is a tuff house. ![]() ![]() FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins ![]() |
#7
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BBH57, I recently did the deack on my 73 SF and used a product recomended by a comercial boat builder called penske board. It comes in a 4 x 8 sheet, variable thickness. It will not absorb water, very strong and is not much heavier than plywood. I chose it because while sealing screws into the deck with 5200 i find water can eventually get in. Hope this helps.
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#8
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Sorry Fellowship
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__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#9
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None taken, if we can’t laugh at ourselves who can we laugh at.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#10
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Thats my problem with going back to plywood. I thought I read that Warthog had drilled a larger hole filled it with glass then made the screw hole in the center of that to avoid the contact but you still have to worry about the edges on hatch opening cut-outs. Ive been thinking about a alum. plate under the floor material (Composite) tapped for screws beneath the t-top
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