Hatch in the cockpit

[Scott]

On the 23 has anyone converted the fixed deck hatch in front of the motor well and behind the fuel deck to a working hatch???. Looks like mine was siliconed in place and than removed frequently. I would prefer to have it more accessible with the bilge pumps being down there.......but I dont like the idea of all the washdown/rain water being able to get down through this hatch (no channel to drain off water and even if there were a channel it would drain to the bilge). This was where my batteries resided with access only through the 8" deck plates. Batteries are going under the console.

Also what have you done with the big hold in the deck in front of the console? In my boat atleast it looks like a wet area, as the hatch is split into two pieces and folds as you lift it up. Anybody change this to make it more "waterproof"??

[SEAFARI]

HI SCOTT,
IN MY 23' I LEAVE THE HATCH NEAR THE MOTOR
WELL AS IS. MOST OF THR RAIN WATER RUN OUT THE SCUPPERS IN THE FLOOR. I PUT A SEA VALVE WITH
A THROUGH HULL STRAINER BELOW ONE OF THE ACCESS
PLATES SO ITS EASY TO OPEN THE SEA VALVE FOR
LIVEWELL USE IN THE AM. THE ONE IN FRONT OF THE
CONSOLE IS FOR THE STRIPERS [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
CHRIS

[Scott]

Chris

I didnt think there were to many options for that hatch. And the front hold/well... I really like your Idea for the one YEAH BABY!!! [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] Do you have a macerator pump in that well to get rid of striper juice?? I know my well drains to ....yes the bilge. On Silverhawks I think they have a macerator pump and an access plate in that well.

Scott

[Capt Skip]

I have the same dilema on that front fish box. Mine has no drain and gets scooped out as I try to limit any water in the bilge due to the inboard. Bilge water Kills inboard starters.
I have been thinking of adding a Water Puppy and strainer to drain the rear bilge lower then the standard bilge pumps can. I then thought to add a Marelon valve which could be hooked up to the fishbox and pump it overboard as well.
Do you think the fish guts would clog the pump? Maybe I should use a macerator?

[Scott]

Capt. Skip

Well my hold/well drains right to the bilge...So no fish for that box unless its plugged. As far as the macerator it would be the nice way to go but its also something more to fail. Back in the days when I worked on some of the big sportfishers our wells had no mechanical meaans of draining (and money was no object). I usually had to do it by hand. At times it seems like stuff like this is more hassle than its worth.....now that just my opinion...If its not easy to fix its not worth it. There were items on these boats that would need to be fixed every time we did an overnight to the canyons, I would spend a couple of days putting the boat back together, fixing stupid stuff like this. If you want to go with the pump I would start with a strainer on what you have and see how that works ......I mean as long as your not trying to chum with it [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Scott

[mjpay]

I replaced my inspection hatch with a Bomar hinged inspection hatch, same size and color as the original. Go to www.pompanette.com look for the Bomar heading, they come in white,offwhite, and black. Part # G8711
I have a 1985 23' cc in mint shape and wanted to keep the original hardware. the hatch is hinged so you can inspect your bilge pump etc. It will never leak if installed properly. they give you instructions with the hatch.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

On the front one I rebuilt the hatch and made it one piece the put hinges on the starboard side to open it up I now use it to stow my anchor with 400’ or rope anchor retrieving ball and a cast net. I bought a large 48” Igloo cooler and place it above that hatch for the fish and a mini coffin seat. As for the back one I make a 32 gal live well like the newer SeaCrafts which uses up most of that area the rest is transducer, 2 bilge pumps, live well pump with scoop and shot off, and fuel filter the top of that area is one solid deck with two round access hatches.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[Billybob]

I hinged my back one, because I couldn't get to the transducer or pumps, plus I like the idea of being able to get my head and hands down there if I have to.
I glassed in the pie holes, and I gasketed the lip on the deck with some seal I found in Mcmaster carr - it doesn't leak, and looks pretty good.The only complaint is I didn't find a flush latch yet - so I have to figure that one out.
Maybe I can get some pics to show you.
Bill

[Scott]

This is funny ... thought I was going crazy...... I looked at this post and said to myself I haven’t posted anything lately ....then I looked at the original date [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Bill .... the flush latches... have you checked out www.gemlux.com ... they have some real nice stuff. Perko has them too but I've noticed on new boats that are using them (Regulator or Pursuit if I recall correctly) they are not all that "flush" In fact I was kind of surprised they were even using them on the deck.

And YES … I would like to see pictures of what you did when you get a chance...

Thanks

[Capt Chuck]

Scott
On my '78 23'I hinged my hatch after installing a 135 gal fuel tank. I got tired of the caulk and screws and water into the bilge deal.I ditched the orignial deck hatch with the inspection plates. I made a new hatch and hinged it to the motor well. I then installed a "gutter system" like the front floor hold and tied it into the floor scuppers and out the transom. (no wet feet) I braced the the two hatches where they meet with a fiberghlass glass wedge between the top of the fuel tank and the floor hatch (no flex). This works real well. I'll send ya a pic.

Capt Chuck (shellback)

If she asks"how much did that cost?" LIE!