re-coating armstrong bracket????

flash14 · #1 07-17-2005, 02:12 AM

I recently purchased an armstrong bracket from a local boat yard that pulled this thing off a 25' hydrosport that went under. The bracket itself is in good structural shape but needs a new coating. What is the best way to coat this thing so I don't have the paint falling off in a year or so? I was thinking grind it clean, coat with 545 primer, and shoot it with awlcraft 2000 in white to match the rest of the overall look of the boat. what do you guys think???

FELLOW-SHIP · #2 07-18-2005, 10:52 AM

You could have it re powder coated after you light sand it. I believe that’s the way it was originally done and probably last the longest.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

warthog5 · #3 07-18-2005, 09:33 PM

What's the finish look like? Peeling, flaking or just scratched?

flash14 · #4 07-19-2005, 04:32 PM

The coating is flaking because of electrolosis. I was planning on sanding it down, neutralizing it with a chemical product, and then priming and spraying it with awlcraft 2000. What do you think? I though about powder coating it, but I heard if you get a chip in the finish, it will have to be redone totally. That wasn't all that inviting.....

Trayder · #5 07-19-2005, 05:18 PM

Armstrong used PPG concept for a while as well as Imron, I think Awlcraft 2000 is a fine choice.

warthog5 · #6 07-19-2005, 07:13 PM

Quote:

The coating is flaking because of electrolosis. I was planning on sanding it down, neutralizing it with a chemical product, and then priming and spraying it with awlcraft 2000. What do you think? I though about powder coating it, but I heard if you get a chip in the finish, it will have to be redone totally. That wasn't all that inviting.....

This is a perfect candite to have sandblasted. It will clean everything up and etch the alum in prep to hold the primer very well.

Here's some thing's to think about when you reinstall it.

Install a rudder style aniode on the tub/body. Be sure not to paint the small area that the aniode makes contact with.
Install Delren washers under your stainless washer's to isolate the 2 metal's. Coat the bolt's with Tef Gel.
http://wolfwire.com/tefgel/Tef-Gel.htm

flash14 · #7 07-19-2005, 07:52 PM

The idea of using the tef gel is a good one, but it seems to be the same as teflon grease. The tef gel is about 3 times as expensive though. Why so much $$$$ ??

warthog5 · #8 07-19-2005, 08:37 PM

Yes it is expensive. That 1oz suringe goes a long way. Their packaging is outstanding. They include a neat little plastic gun style brush that snap's into the plunger.

I can tell you this stuff is hard to get off of your finger's.
Your not supposed to get it on your skin. [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

Forget about asking for Tef Gel at the local marine box store. They will just look at you funny. I ordered 3- 1oz suringes, just so I'd have it around.

I've only found 2 places online that has it. The price diffrence is $1.00.

Ed · #9 07-20-2005, 12:07 PM

Andrew-

I agree with Warthog and would have it sandblasted first. Then I would hand sand any spots they missed and then you need to completely soak the piece with metal etching compound and then follow it with a metal conditioner.

After the etcher/conditioner dries (read the directions...not very long)...you'll need to spray on a coats of Awlgrips' zinc oxide primer (it is a greenish/yellow in color and is very thin and runs easily...be careful) and then follow up with one or two coats of Awlgrip's 545 and then shoot it with Awlgrip or Awlcraft topcoat.

If done correctly, it should last a long time. Be sure to replace the zincs, etc...