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Well folks, there's no turning back now. I have the t-top off, console removed, and every removable hatch taken off. Time to start cutting! I've been doing lots of reading here in what I could find about this repair but have my own list of Q's. I know you guys will get me through this.
My boat has the standard large console. The flange on the bottom of the console is all cracked and worthless. I was thinking about building a new flange on the inside, and once it is done, then cut off the one on the outside. Has anybody done this? Will there be enough room for a 1" or so flange on the inside or will something get in the way? We cruise first and fish second with our boat so I am planning to build a bench seat on the front of the console. I plan to hinge the front door on top instead of on the side so it will have enough strengh. It will be like a Contender console, even with the hydraulic ram. After reading some info on here it looks like 3/4 inch coosa is the way to go. I think the coring is 1/2 now so this will be a problem around the gutters for the fishboxes. Should I suck it up and do the extra work and go with 3/4 or is 1/2 enough? The stringers are hollow right? So there is no rot I need to worry about correcting in the bilge while the boat is opened up right? It seems like there is some rot under where my batteries go - the flat spots on the port and sb sides of the bilge aft of the gas tank. Is this part cored with wood? I have not cut into it to check yet. I'm going to need a new fuel tank too. First, where can I haul the boat to get rid of the old one? It's half full of fuel. Second, which tank is the best to go back in? Lots of Q's but I'm excited about this project.
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www.BOEmarine.com - Marine Electronics and More www.ByOwnerYachts.com - Innovative Yacht Brokerage Programs Proud owner of a 1976 23' Seacraft CC. |
#2
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Jim,
Please take and post pictures of the project, as I may be following in your footsteps at some point doen the road. Good luck. Thanks, Peter
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...iseacraft3.jpg |
#3
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Jim
You have a lot of choices to make regarding how to proceed: First I would drain your gas off into a few small tanks and pour it into your cars to get rid of. Taking it to someplace to dispose of it doesn't make sense since you can recycle it and save the money for the coosa. Regarding the deck rebuild, I opted to save the top skin of glass. I made a cut around the outer edge near the gunnels, peeled the top skin away from the wood core, scraped the wet / rotted wood away from the lower skin, let it dry out for a few weeks and then recored with a combination of core cell and plywood ( around the edges where the console would be fastened). Once the core was glassed in, I put the top skin back on. I replace with 1/2 inch material and I do not notice any deflection so I believe this is all you will need. Once the skin was glassed in , I ground a 12:1 bevel along the seam all around and added alternating widths of cloth into the seam to spread out the load along the seam. The seam was widened to a width of about 3 inches in this step and then filled. A bit of fairing along the edges and you should be ready to paint or re gel coat! As far as the console is concerned, it would give some consideration to reglassing the outer lip as this would be the least amount of work. Two or three layers of cloth applied to the bottom should do the trick. If you want a smaller console or one with an internal lip, I would consider taking a trip to Fla. and visiting the Dania flea market or one of a number of fabricators or boat manufacturers, that have been discussed in earlier posts. One of the nicer consoles available directly from a manufauturer is made by Dusky. SeaVee also makes a great console but I don't know if they will sell one to you. Good luck with your upgrades. Rich |
#4
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Hay Jimmy looks like your getting ready for some work and maybe some practice and advise for Mike and my boat. I'm waiting for some warm weather and Johnnie Vicco to move back here to CT to get going on my project. Make sure you take good notes and pics. Good luck Jim Vic
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#5
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Thanks for the tips dink. My deck surface has been painted a bunch of times and is pretty cracked and worn out, so I really can't re-use the skin. I am going to use all new glass.
Hey Jim! So it took my post to get you out of the woodwork here ![]() So how do I syphon the gas out of my tank and into my gas caddy? can I just literally syphon it? How do I get the gas flowing?
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www.BOEmarine.com - Marine Electronics and More www.ByOwnerYachts.com - Innovative Yacht Brokerage Programs Proud owner of a 1976 23' Seacraft CC. |
#6
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Yacht Jim, I really do want to buy a plotter from you, just haven't decided which one. Even got my tax return back. Anyway, I know I can help you. Stop in a truck stop. Ask for a large diameter syphon hose with the brass check valve. It's the coolest thing you've ever seen provided you have stolen, I mean, swallowed gas before. It will be about 15 feet long. Place the open end in the container you want to syphon fuel TO. Preferrably lower, gravity will help, and be faster. Next, place the brass ball/check valve inside the boat fuel cell, until it is below the level of the fuel. Then just shake back and forth a half a dozen times and the clear tube will fill. It's pretty amazing. Be careful, this is MUCH faster than traditional methods due to the added diameter of the hose. Do not leave unnattended! This is really fast. You'll have it the rest of your life. I can't get over how often we use them around the shop, boats, diesel trucks, and transferring racing fuels. They're really sharp if you've never seen one. Hope this helps. Part II.
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#7
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__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#8
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Jim,
Assuming you have an outboard you just diconnect the fuel hose from the engine and pump the ball and the gas will start to syphon (put the empty tank on the floor and run the hose to it so it is lower), I use this method to fill up my gas can for the lawn mower all the time. Another option is an external electric fuel pump from the auto parts store. Jim thanks for the great price on my Navman GPS, ICOM VHF, and MY Furuno 600...I have more money in my electronics from BOE than I spent on my hull!
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Moesly 1969 20 CC & Potter 1978 23 CC (23 in storage awaiting rebuild) |
#9
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Great ideas on the fuel guys! Duh, i forgot all about the primer ball. If that doesn't work I got a truck stop about 8 miles away that will have one of those syphons.
Strick, you did an awesome job on that console. I'm not that motivated though ![]()
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www.BOEmarine.com - Marine Electronics and More www.ByOwnerYachts.com - Innovative Yacht Brokerage Programs Proud owner of a 1976 23' Seacraft CC. |
#10
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You dont have to go thru all the trouble I did. I was trying to show how I mad the inward flange like you asked about. I think you could do it fairly easy.
![]() strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
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