replacing transom hull plug?

[ztagator]

Any advice on how to replace plastic type rubber plug thru-hull to a brass screw in type on lower transom. I'm not too comfortable with the rubber plug set-up.

[bigeasy1]

I'm in the process of installing a new transom this weekend,on my Tsunami;and will be doing the exact same thing you're talking about.
I bought the brass garboard transom drain assembly,that consists of the brass body,and brass plug.
The body part of the unit is a casting with a female pipe thread in the center,and a flange of approx.2-1/4 inches with three holes,for screws in it on the outside.
You just have to drill a hole of about 1" for the inside part to fit into,and the flange would sit on the outside of the glass.
The flange has three holes to put screws thru into the transom core.
I'm naturally going to have the edges of the hole sealed with resin,and will be bedding the casting into the wood with 3M 5200.I wouldn't want to depend on just the screws.

If you already have an existing transom with the drain with the brass sleeve,you'll either have to remove it completely,or you may be able to just cut the outside lip off and place the new drain inside,if it will fit.
The inside part of casting that is threaded,protrudes from the flange part about 3/4" and would be bedded into the hole in the transom.

[abl1111]

I just re-did mine too. I would do this: Take the old garboard tube out ( if it's bad ). Make sure the bilge is empty so the area does not get wet, rough up the hole in the transom w/ some sand paper. Vacuum it out, clean w/ a little acetone, and epoxy the hole w/ the West System to seal the edges. Let it dry.

Visualize this next part:

The Perko drain plug w/ the (3) drilled out holes is made of bronze ( the threaded male, plug is brass ). The drain plug diameter fits snugly into the correct size garboard tube. The plug is the male part.

You want to dry fit it all first.

You want the garboard tube to be cut just at the right size so that it sits flush with the bilge-side wall of the transom ( you could flange it if you want ) - and just long enough to allow the drain plug to be mounted to the transom on the outside and fit inside the garboard tube.

Once dry fitted, then I used caulk life and set the garboard tube in place. Let it set. Then, the next day, I put the drain plug into place, and screwed it in ( using Caulk Life also. To be extra safe : you could also, oversize the (3) drill holes, fill 'em with thickened West System - let them fully dry and then re-drill the correct size screws through the epoxy into the transom - this way, if there is ever any leaking - it's into epoxy and not your beloved transom !

Ask me why I re-did mine !!!

Hope that was clear !

[strick]

strick

[abl1111]

Picture = 1000 words ...

[brianmac]

just a suggestion, i am rebuilding a flat bottom fglass houseboat, and it has 3 drainplugs, that went thru the transom wood. i dont care how much 5200 you put in there, its eventually gonna be where water weeps into the transom and rots it out, and you can never get them low enuf in the hull to drain all the rain out. so i made some fiberglass drain tubes, and glassed em right into the bottom of the hull, and glassed em over. never leak, rot, or corrode. you can make your own using a wood dowel or pipe wrapped with wax paper so it wont stick, and wrap with fibergalss tape for a good finish. or you could just go get a $12 dollar fiberglass rake handle from big lots and work off of that. remember to use proper glassing techniques: sand or scuff it, degrease/clean with acetone first, and dont use anything but laminating(waxless) resin until your ready to finish. and if possible, dont run em thru the wood.