Floor & Stringers 10-18-07

Happi1fla · #1 10-18-2007, 10:52 PM

I bumped the kid off the computer, Its my turn Ha
Had exposed one side of the floor to see the stringers
Will remove the tank and gas, Had it out and replaced
a few years ago. Just not sure on the removal of the
holder/coffin for the tank its looks like it will
separate from the floor or epoxy holding it down.
Any suggestions kinda need to get down to the bottom
of the hull.
Once up I can inspect that stringer that has a deep
crack in it. I sure love these boats and hope to get
this one back on the water.
If anyone is interested in a pourable resin for their
transom instead of wood . I repaired mine at the factory
Last year. Thanks for showing the other pics I believe
my hull looks something like Bigshrimpin's hull with the tank holder/coffin resting on the edge of the stringers
Trying to get these pictures out. Thank you all,

GradySailfish · #2 10-19-2007, 10:34 AM

Looks like your making some progress. Am I mistaken or is that a 20 Master Angler. From the deck layout it sure looks identical to my master angler.

The tank coffin on my MA was extremely solid, its one entire piece, almost like a tub in which the tank sits. If I were you I'd strongly recommend keeping it that way.

What are your plans with the boat ? If you look for my thread in this section you will see it not too far down called 1978 Master Angler retoration. I raised the transom 5 inches, replaced the deck, re-cored the topcap.

I like that teak trim running underneath the gunnel cap. I might do that on mine. It already has holes pre-drilled for it but I though that was for a plastic trim piece or something.

-Alex

Happi1fla · #3 10-22-2007, 12:05 AM

Thanks Alex sorry not to get back to you , Slowly moving along, removed the gas and pulled the tank
Going to keep that tank tub solid But need to get underneath to the very bottom to repair a crack and inspect further.
Looks like i can pry the tub up to get there. Left four or five inches around the lip of the tub. Its coming up just haven't got it out yet.

May be a ways off from this , But would like to replace all the foam , is their a type of foam , recommended brands
I see the relief holes on top of the stringers where the excess came out. But I get different opinions on this,

Not sure of which boat hull this is. Have'nt researched .Trying to repair and get back on the water.
Recently found this web site. Great topics , Great Help and Great Boats.

Thanks all for helping me. I would like to return the help if I can somehow.

I did a video on replacing my transom last year, with a pourable composite, no wood from start to finish . If interested would be glad to help step by step.

Thank you all,
John

GradySailfish · #4 10-22-2007, 10:38 AM

Any new pictures ? I looked at your photos again and I'm almost sure your boat is the Master Angler version of the 20 footers.

So anyway your project is looking good right now. Thanks for the offer on pourable transom replacement but I've already done my transom. You should post if here anyway though for others to use.

When you rebuild your deck and decide to leave the channel alongside the outer edge of your deck, make sure you place some tape in there to keep any resin or whatnot from going down there...otherwise its a bitch to sand that channel.

Do you plan on leaving the carpet or doing something else?

TUGBOAT · #5 10-22-2007, 11:23 AM

Nope not a Master angler. The masters have a pronouced raised TopCap & the Hatches on the stearn are even with the cap.Also the Railing on the bow is inset / knotched on the inside "Knot" on top(originally). unless.........

20' MA

Peter Alaries' 20 SF

Scream'n reels'

TUGBOAT · #6 10-22-2007, 11:38 AM

WHOOP'S !! Your right "GRADY" It is a "MA" ! I went back to one of His Original post & looked at what I thought was HIS boat.. It was Brian A's Boat! Good Catch..

Happi1fla · #7 10-22-2007, 01:32 PM

Alex, Thanks for that hint Will tape that Channel up,

Kinda thinking about how the floor will go back in. Left

four or five inches of floor around the outside where it

connects to the walls (Carpet starts) its not real secure

mainly rests on the stringers, could I secure the floor to

the wall better I can get above and underneath to form/dam

up the bottom or could this put stress on the walls.

Not sure on what to do with the Carpet. Surprising for

nearly thirty years still looks good , Can't say that

about whats left on the top of my head.

If you get a chance,please look at this site Transom repair

homepage their are many links and sites but use this one.

its help me and others. Oh yea will send more pic's

Kick's out pic's sent here from work.

Thanks John

Bigshrimpin · #8 10-22-2007, 02:23 PM

Just do the transom with plywood and glass the old fashion way . . . proven to last 30+ years. Seacast is expensive stuff . . . I know some folks that have used it and seem to like it, but it just looks like a PIA to me. Just a lot easier/less expensive to use marine plywood . . . and do the old screw and glue.

GradySailfish · #9 10-23-2007, 10:39 AM

Capt. Brad....I can smell a Master Angler a mile away lol !

Lael, here's a link to my project...you can check out how the deck was done and if you like it do it in a similar fasion. If you epoxy "tabs" to the underside of the deck lip, you can have the deck resting on both the stringers and on the lips running the perimeter of the deck. The tabs are particularly important in the foward section where the stringer supports aren't as wide.

I already did my transom and I did it "the old fashioned" way. I raised it to 25 inches and I glassed 2 3/4 panels of AC Douglas Fir together with 1.5 oz matt sandwhiched between on 1/2 piece of AC...all done with epoxy. The transom is over 2 and a hlaf inches thick. I kinda over-did it but I'd rather be safe then sorry.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&fpart=2&vc=1