Amps and Volts

[McGillicuddy]

Being electrically ignorant, I wonder if some of you more omnipotent, and electrically accomplished skippers can offer a little insight as I rewire my '72 Seafari? For now I'm running an '83 115hp "tower of power." It's my understanding that I might be getting about 9 amps (not sure of this either) back to the batteries from this alternator/stator circuit. Armed with this information, does it make sense to hook up a Blue Seas auto charging relay w/starting isolator for seemingly nominal gain or should I spend that extra hundy on a bigger, better deep-cycle battery for my house power? Also, should that house battery be moved fore, like into the cuddy or helm area running heftier cable back to charging circuit? Solar battery charger of any use here? Thanks! -- Gillie

[rhody98]

For me adding the second battery was a no brainer. My either or question was whether to use a simple battery switcher as I've always used in the past, or go with the Blue Sea add-a-battery setup. This package is a relay and switcher combo that acts as an isolator and a combiner - I'm not sure if this is the same thing you're looking at. I ended up installing the Blue Sea system, its a little over $100. If you look at the product literature you'll see there's some obvious benefits over just having the "off/1/2/both" switcher. But...I would say its a lower priority than a second battery with a low cost switcher.

I also have a Seafari, I mulled over putting the second battery up front which helps the weight distribution but ended up with the house bat. in the port stern locker. One thing to consider is the cost of running the battery cables up front will be costly, I figured I already spent a bunch on the Blue Sea gadget.

Pic is the switcher and relay in strbd locker, along with a neg bus bar which helped clean things up. The cranking battery is removed. I have a mercruiser I/O. I found the best deal on cables from an online place genuinedealz.com, which despite the cheesy name has good prices and you can order custom length/size cables with the lugs and heat shrink done, quality of work is very good.

[rhody98]

I might have misunderstood your post, looks like you already have 2 batteries but considering upgrading the house battery. If so I guess I would hold on to it if its strong and add the relay.

[Bushwacker]

Gilley - My old 1975 115 Evinrude that I ran for over 30 years put out a whopping 6 amps, with no voltage regulator!

I guess they figured you couldn't hurt anything with 6 amps, just boil off water, so it was important to use an old style unsealed battery and check electrolyte often. I ran 2 batteries with the simple Guest 1-Both-2-Off switch.
I did install a voltmeter and generally ran on both batteries, switching to #1 or 2 when anchored out overnight. Whenever I had a battery going bad, I did notice that voltage would get up over 14 volts, particularly if I was just running on the weak battery instead of both. Have to be careful not to have switch on "Both" in that situation with engine off because the weak battery will drain the good one! (A battery isolator system will prevent this from happening) Otherwise I never had a problem, but electrical system was fairly simple - only accessories were the VHF and an old Raytheon flasher-recorder, plus the bilge pump and nav lights and a 12V outlet for plug in spotlight. Back when these boats were new, things were a lot simpler and nobody felt the need for a 200 watt stereo, high pressure washdown system or big live bait wells!

Those older smaller motors can be hand cranked; mine even had a starter rope in a little bag snapped to inside of cowling! One tip: if you ever do have a situation where battery has enough juice to engage the bendix gear but won't spin the motor, you can often hand crank it pretty easily if you'll have someone hit the starter just as you pull the rope. Also helps to carry a can of starting fluid (ether).

I know the whole point of your question is to try to stay out of such situations, but it's good to know this stuff if you ever DO get stuck with a weak battery!

[McGillicuddy]

Thanks for the input, Guys. Nice looking starboard locker, rhody. I'd love to see the arrangement on port side. That is the Blue Seas system I had in mind, Right now that ACR wouldn't even fit in my stern s/b locker. 2 batteries (deep cycle appears to be shot), h2o/fuel separator, bat switch, bait pump switch, trim/tilt motor, bilge hose, and all cables are filling the box. There's so much going on there it might belong in the hall of shame. Moving the house battery over to port stern is feasible but there is a live-well set up in there. Gotta figure out how to safely seal it and create a platform/box for battery.
I have no intention of using it for bait, cause I prefer a tank for safety, accessibility and I think they are better for the bait.
Genuinedealz is definitely the route I'll go... I try to support local merchants but WestMarine freaks me out$!!

Maybe a silly question, but how do you attach bus bars and switches etc., just screw into transom?

Being that I think my current motor creates relatively little amperage a mechanic I know suggested I'd never run enough to fully recharge house bat, so I might spend more on a better battery and forego the Blue Seas kit. But as you and Bushwacker agreed, the isolater/combiner does have some favorable redundancy and protection. What the heck, it's only hard earned money right? Get the Add-a-battery and a big ol' group 31 deep cycle to boot!

[rhody98]

The port side is empty except for the cables waiting for me to install the battery box. There was a lift out ice box there. To install I used a sealant in the smaller screw holes and for the battery box tie downs I drilled over size holes, filled with epoxy and redrilled for the screws.

Not sure how you solve your undercharging problem with a new battery, it also needs to be charged. My mercruiser puts out plenty of juice to charge but in thinking about your situation, I believe the relay controls the charging in way that focuses on the cranking battery - and w/o the "2" switch I dont think you can just send the charge to the house battery alone. I would actually contact Blue Seas and discuss your issue w/9 amps - I have called and emailed them in the past and found them very responsive....I'm no electrical genius either.

[Bushwacker]

Gilley - I have the same space challenges, as my 72 Seafari also has the bait well under port seat which I do use occasionally for small bait or shrimp, or as a handy locker for dive gear. However there is a couple of cubic feet of space underneath the splashwell, and it was driving me nuts on the Bahama trips to have all that space there and not be able to get at it. I put a watertight hatch in the splashwell, which not only allowed access to the bilge pump and fuel tank hoses, but also had room to install a Racor fuel filter/separator, Bennett trim tab pump and common ground buss. Also used to carry extra oil there during Bahama trips. Just have to be sure float switch on bilge pump is protected so nothing can jam it. After the repower/bracket install, I cut away most of the splashwell and covered it with a hinged seat, so now that locker holds even more stuff, including the oil tank and spare fenders.

I also installed an o-ring sealed Pyhe plate in port side of baitwell to access a fairly large area between outboard stringer and side of hull. There's enough room there to store a fuel filler funnel, bilge cleaner, etc. I also dug out all the foam between the stringers under port stern seat, which created enough room for a 2nd Group 27 battery/box and stern anchor with chain and 100' of line.

Blue Seas makes good stuff and that isolator switch sounds pretty reasonable. Probably a good deal in the long run if you plan to eventually repower with newer motor. I've replaced a couple of those Guest switches, so a better quality switch would have been cheaper in the long run!
Denny

[rhody98]

I'm about to derail this thread. Wacker I like the way your top folds down and lays on the transom. I just had one made, when laid back it doesn't reach the transom - it lays across the gunwale forward of the stern seats. The fitter was going to come up with something to support it upright when folded, but looking at yours I'm wondering if the uprights cant be fitted with a telescoping section to reach back to the transom. Either your uprights are further aft than mine, its taller, or......??

[Old'sCool]

Some have a track they mount in allowing adjustment forward/aft.

[McGillicuddy]

Good eye, Rhody and thanks again for the pics and input guys - I noticed the same thing about about Denny's Bimini on the last set of pics I saw of his Seafari. I think he said it wasn't by design but I think he's on to something. I've been on some walk-arounds with forward tilting Biminis that simply ruin the walkaround concept. I'll call Blue seas on the house battery issue - good idea. They really do have excellent customer service. - Gillie