More trailer questions please.

[gofastsandman]

Hey all,
Got the girl on the stands in 2 hrs. by myself. Pat pat.

Thanks Ole!!! You drink Corona right?
Took pics of everything that may be helpful. Serious holes I couldn`t see. Cut off the forward cross member to avoid 2 jacking sessions. She`s good and steady on the hard now.

Went through 3 cut off wheels removing the cross members and bunks. The crack in the I beam I had welded has failed so that`s on the list as well. I can do bubble gum welding.

Q`s
Will Tef Gel between the new SS u bolts and alum. cross members be ok, or could I put some thin HDPE between them.

I would like to use some kind of sheath to protect the rewire. Thoughts?

The trailer is for a 22 ft. boat and the 6" bunk brackets leave the hull 1" below the fenders.

Go to 8" allum?

Anyone local good at welding alum?

Schmidt`s isn`t mobile, but they are masters.

Cheers,
GFS

[Blue197320]

Sandy, i use 16/3 extension cord for my trailer lights. its got the sheath outside and each wire inside. get some heat shrink connectors and s big enough adhesive lined heat shrink to go over all that and just for the heck of it throw some liquid electrical tape (ET) in there after you heat one side then heat the other. no problems at all.

[DonV]

Evan is "right on" with the extension cord idea. I've used this on my trailer for my Hewes Bonefisher and it's been working perfect for 6 or 7 years. Remember to use a ground for each light all the way from front to back....no breaks in the cord cover. To really go crazy...5200 each splice then heat shrink on top of that.

[Blue197320]

just make sure you have a way to hang the "cable" on the inside top of the ibeams. if you have it sittin on the bottom inside the cable will be sitting in saltwater while your out fishing. the trailer under my 20 has a hole drilled every few feet on th upper inside of the I and i just used a ty-rap thru the one hole and ran it around the cable and back thru. the head on the ty-rap keeps it from pulling thru. been that way for years already.
50' cord should do ya just fine. probably get it for about 10-15 bucks.

[gofastsandman]

Thanks Evan and Don. I got tired of working on the lights 3 yrs. ago and got some LEDs. I rewired at the time with a reg trailer harness and it has been fine, but I want to protect it. Liquid tape and ty wraps sound good, but I like the 16/3 Idea. How do you tie into the markers without splicing? I ignored the markers when I did mine because it seemed like I would be working on the lights every other weekend as before. I know I`m not 100% legal, but I haven`t worked on my lights in 3 yrs. either.

Evan I`ll post pics of the console insert this week.

Well, I`m off to the Hub and the Expediter for more pieces/parts. Hi Ho Hi Ho.

Thx,
GFS

[Blue197320]

what i would do with the clearance lights is just take a length of your old trailer harness and use that only for the clearance lights. make the connection up at the tongue where the 16/3 starts. for that i would use a yellow heat shrink connector because you can put 2 16 awg wires in one side (for clearance lights and running lights on the trailer side) and on the tongue side where your using the old harness just strip back twice as much as u normally would and fold it over and then crimp it down. i hope i explained it so its understandable. i can get some pics if you need them. let me know.

[gofastsandman]

Got it. Thx Evan!
Cheers,
GFS