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#1
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It would be great if i could get just a general vote.
what material is best for transom replacment and simple to use, on 20SF that will be getting a full transom and bracket? coosa, penske, PVC Foam, marine ply wood, pourables, ect. thanks again all, im ready to buy material and have found were to buy them, just finaly need to decide wich one. |
#2
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I did another seacraft a few years ago (regret selling it) and I went with a composite
That way I would not have to worry about it ever getting bad on me. When the time comes I'm doing the same to the one I have now The price difference was not that much for the piece of mind it brings It also helped in the resale value |
#3
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I think with the fact you are going with a full transom and bracket....I'd go light and composite. However knowing there is alot of strength built into the bracket and the bracket spreads the weight over a larger area you could go with wood to save money. I'm still going with the composite.
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#4
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thanks , but which one? i have either penske or foam to choose right now.
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#5
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#6
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2 sheets 3/4" marine plywood @ $80.00 a sheet = $160.00 and if applied properly will last another 20+ years. How much money are the composites?
I'm sure it's the way of the future but at the end of the day mine is still a 39 year old boat. By the way; have you seen some of those Dusky's with the "No Wood No Rot Transom's" that rotted out. I can't help it I'm old school, and have had more boats and spend way too much money on them. But I love it, and more power to anyone who think's he want's the best. Wild Bill I almost forgot "LET"S GO HEAT!" Last edited by WildBill; 05-30-2012 at 08:49 PM. |
#7
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I just did mine and went with 3/4 marine ply on the outer layer with 3/4 Coosa Bluewater 26 on the inner. I would have gone all Coosa but plan on adding trim tabs and wanted to have wood for the screws to bite into. I did go kinda high end on the plywood using Joubert Okoume once I got to the plywood place. Couldn't resist saving a bit more weight on the back end of my 20SF. The Coosa is very pricey but one nice thing I found is it shapes really easily with a Surform. Mine has a 25" cutout and not bracketed btw.
Last edited by Normagain; 05-31-2012 at 09:55 AM. |
#8
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If you're planning to install a bracket, you want that transom as light as possible, so composite is definitely worth the extra $ IMHO. A neighbor of mine that is a composites expert prefers Corecell, but he helped start the company so may be a little bias there! Maybe some of the experienced boat builders on this site like Bly or Don Herman know more about it and can chime in. Don't know how well it'll hold screws. Coosa does NOT hold screws well. For putting screws in any sort of core, I'd play it safe and drill the holes oversize, fill with thickened epoxy, then redrill and tap for machine screws, which seem to stay tight better than sheet metal or self tapping screws.
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#9
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i switched over from using wood in any coring applications - wood rots,simple fact.wood needs to be completley sealed from any water intrusion... granted,there's a few techniques required for working with composites -thru bolting and sleeving is one of them. penske board or coosa is the choice,for me,and what i use as a core replacement at my shop...
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do not let common sense get in your way |
#10
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ok so im getting closer on the foam core idea, since im adding a bracket i need to keep it light. i know if i use foam i have to use more glass on the layup, but can anyone tell me how much i would have to add? thanks
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