Loose Bulkhead 23WA

[CaptLloyd]

I went offshore on Friday, and ran 82 miles round trip in nasty 3-4' very tight seas. I was able to run 18 knots, but noticed some extra noise on some landings. Trip went fine, caught some dolphin, but after clean up, I dug around a bit.

Under this storge compartment on the starboard in the cabin



I noticed this looking aft



The tabbing was loose, and with not too much effort, I was able to pull the roven out and expose this wood bulkhead



It was loose and was originally put in place with a few small globs of putty. This is what the space looks like without the bulhead



I am assuming this bulkhead is just a partition to keep items in the compartment from falling into the bilge, and not structural.

So my question is can I just tab it back in with 17 oz biax and epoxy, or do I need to beef it up more. As mentioned in the other thread, I do not want to create a hard point.

Thanks for any input.

Lloyd

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by CaptLloyd

I went offshore on Friday, and ran 82 miles round trip in nasty 3-4' very tight seas. I was able to run 18 knots, but noticed some extra noise on some landings. Trip went fine, caught some dolphin, but after clean up, I dug around a bit.

Under this storge compartment on the starboard in the cabin



I noticed this looking aft



The tabbing was loose, and with not too much effort, I was able to pull the roven out and expose this wood bulkhead



It was loose and was originally put in place with a few small globs of putty. This is what the space looks like without the bulhead



I am assuming this bulkhead is just a partition to keep items in the compartment from falling into the bilge, and not structural.

So my question is can I just tab it back in with 17 oz biax and epoxy, or do I need to beef it up more. As mentioned in the other thread, I do not want to create a hard point.

Thanks for any input.

Lloyd

I would hope that is not structural.
Use a paper towel tube to round the woven?

Wrap the tube in cling film.
Wrap the wet woven around the tube.
Unroll.
You now have a nice soft radius.

[CaptLloyd]

Are you saying leave the wood out? I'm not sure I can pull off your technique, without ending up with a pile of cloth and resin balled up on the bottom of the compartment

[wattaway2]

I would think seeing how it was tabbed in place to begin with I wouldn't worry about making a hard spot and go ahead with the repairs as you had in mind

[FAS]

I would say put that baby back in there, it was there for a reason.dont fit the new wood too tight, let some putty or bondo take up the slack, then glass it at least as it was.

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by CaptLloyd

Are you saying leave the wood out? I'm not sure I can pull off your technique, without ending up with a pile of cloth and resin balled up on the bottom of the compartment

Wet out the glass, and roll the tube up over the glass. Now you have a piece of glass
that you unroll where you want it to go and get a gentle radius in the corner.

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by FAS

I would say put that baby back in there, it was there for a reason.dont fit the new wood too tight, let some putty or bondo take up the slack, then glass it at least as it was.

This! I'm not familiar with the walk around liner attachments but if it was glassed in to begin with it was meant to be a structural tie. I would check the other side as well.

[mnwnvc]

I wonder if injecting some West System G flex in crack before a new layer would be beneficial. G Flex comes in a caulking tube and is thickened. Check out their web site.

[CaptLloyd]

I checked the port side, and the aft section looked ok. Notice there is also wood on the inboard side. On both port and starboard side, the wood is only tabbed along the bottom. When I knock on them, they sound loose, eventhough the tabbing looks solid. So I injected some thicked epoxy behind the wood, then ran a layer of 17 oz biax along the top.

I put the starboard aft section back together as is was. I made sure the wood was only making contact with putty when I set it, then tabbed it with 17 oz biax and epoxy.

Sorry Sandy, I wasn't able to use the tube technique. Very ackward space to work, I couldn't get both hands in there at the same time

We'll see how it does on the next rough ride.

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by CaptLloyd

I checked the port side, and the aft section looked ok. Notice there is also wood on the inboard side. On both port and starboard side, the wood is only tabbed along the bottom. When I knock on them, they sound loose, eventhough the tabbing looks solid. So I injected some thicked epoxy behind the wood, then ran a layer of 17 oz biax along the top.

I put the starboard aft section back together as is was. I made sure the wood was only making contact with putty when I set it, then tabbed it with 17 oz biax and epoxy.

Sorry Sandy, I wasn't able to use the tube technique. Very ackward space to work, I couldn't get both hands in there at the same time

We'll see how it does on the next rough ride.

Was nice talking with you.
The way they build things today, munchkins will be in high demand. Janet was looking at
Minis recently. No way I am working on that Tonka toy.