1988 seacraft rebuild

[No grave but the Seacraft]

I'm new to this community but I've been following it for a while. Here it goes. I have a 1988 Tracker SeaCraft 20 project in the works. I know it's not a Potter hull but the price was too good to pass up, especially with the tandem aluminum trailer. The plan for this build is to recreate the custom SeaCraft 20 as seen on Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat. This will include removing the casting deck and giving it a flush deck, widening the gunnel cap and lengthening the deck at the bow. I will also be cutting down the shear line and building out the stringers through the transom to incorporate the outboard bracket. i will finish it off by building a closed transom with built in livewell and adding a smaller console and leaning post

[No grave but the Seacraft]

Time to get dirty. I will not be using the console captain's chairs and liner. The floor and gas tank were shot so it all must go. I am hoping to relocate the fish box to fit lengthwise between the stringers in front of the new fuel tank so I removed the casting deck in one piece to save the hatch gutters. The gunwhale cap was cut from the liner as one piece and set aside to be reconstructed later.

[No grave but the Seacraft]

I went back and forth about whether to sand and paint or strip and re-gelcoat. after much research and debate I opted to strip and re-gelcoat. Mainly i was worried about the trailer bunks scuffing a painted bottom. I have had issues with this on other boats. The black line on the shear is what will be removed to increase the overall aesthetics of this timeless hull design. I decided to tackle the outside of the hull first because it was light enough empty to get it in the air and really address the scratches and old repairs. The bottom of the hull was a combination of newer paint and weathered gelcoat.

[AlabamaRick]

Originally Posted by No grave but the Seacraft

Time to get dirty. I will not be using the console captain's chairs and liner. The floor and gas tank were shot so it all must go. I am hoping to relocate the fish box to fit lengthwise between the stringers in front of the new fuel tank so I removed the casting deck in one piece to save the hatch gutters. The gunwhale cap was cut from the liner as one piece and set aside to be reconstructed later.

You may want to support the hull sides with a few 2x4's fastened to each side if you haven't already. Some guys have had problems putting the the cap back on because the distance between the sides had widened.

[AlabamaRick]

Originally Posted by AlabamaRick

You may want to support the hull sides with a few 2x4's fastened to each side if you haven't already. Some guys have had problems putting the the cap back on because the distance between the sides had widened.

Oops, I see that you already have

[No grave but the Seacraft]

Thanks Rick! I learned that lesson lurking on the forum.

[No grave but the Seacraft]

I couldn't find the color gelcoat i was looking for. I wanted a really light almost white blue. I wound up mixing equal parts FGCI ice blue with their ultra white. I added that mix in a 1:1 ratio of duratec high gloss additive. After spraying to the desired thickness I sanded and sanded and sanded and... you get the idea. In the right light and angle you can see the hint of blue.

[Xcomunic8d]

Looking good. I’m excited to see your plans come together.

[No grave but the Seacraft]

The trailer was in pretty good shape and I could have just replaced the springs and repacked the bearings but since I had the boat off of it I just couldn't help myself. I ordered two new 3500# torsion axles and a set of stainless disc brakes and actuator. It got four new wheels and tires along with new lights and bunk carpet.

[No grave but the Seacraft]

I've been working on this project for a couple of months before joining the community so I had a stockpile of photos to upload but this post will bring it up to date. I used two layers of 3/4" 26# Coosa with a layer of 1700 biaxial glass between them for the stringer extension/outboard bracket. I'm using epoxy resin for the entire build so didn't bother with 1708 glass. I will be using the same combination for the transom but will have three layers for the actual motor mount. I will have a longitudinal support "shelf" glassed on the inside of the transom on top of the stringers. The plywood is just for my templates and to use for nesting on the sheets of coosa. Can't afford any waste. I have yet to cut down the freeboard out of fear but maybe in the next few days.