Raising transom to 25"

[dcobbett]

I’m jumping the gun a bit here, but I’m due to take delivery of a 1976 20Sf at the end of next week and I’ve begun to develop a mental list of improvements that I’d like to do before the start of next season. Got my positive hat on here, and I’m assuming that the transom is rock solid, but I’d like to raise it to 25”. I’ve done a lot of looking on this site and the Mako site and there is a ton of information/opinion on replacing transoms, but I have not found a lot on just raising a good transom to 25”.

I assume there is a better way than doing a complete a new transom @ 25”, and that it probably involves cutting back (routing out) the existing core in layers so the new material could be installed in an overlapping manner.

I’d appreciate any opinions, suggestions and thoughts on the matter.

[RS]

Dan,
If your 29 year old transom is really rock solid you should run out and buy some lottery tickets. No sense in letting that kind of luck go to waste. FWIW, i've seen a few transom modifications to 25" and they've all looked bad and cracked around the seam. I'd plan on a full transom replacement.

[dcobbett]

Look, I did say I had my positive hat on!

[Ed]

Dan-

Congrats on the new boat.

However, I agree that replacing the entire transom is probably the best way to go in the long run.

[dcobbett]

Ed,

Thanks. I'm scheduled to meet michigandave this Friday in PA so I should have the boat in the driveway this weekend.
BTW, please keep your eye open for a Yamaha 130 for me. I understand that's a very good engine for the 20' Seacraft SF hull.

[alarie]

I have a 130 Yamaha on my newly restored boat, and it is a great engine for the hull. I think it is the best option unless you are going new, but that is close to $14K.

Plan on a full transom job, BTW.

[fishstu]

Dan - my 2 cents

A full replacement 25" transom will not cost that much more than a proper strong patch job, which will not crack at the joint (they almost always do). To make the 5" extension strong/stiff enough to be structurally integral (equivalent to a complete new transom) with the original transom requires adding several whole layers of fiber grass over the complete modified transom inside and out. Adds more weight than a complete new transom

A complete, new, well-done 25" transom adds a lot of value to a SC, I don’t think extending a 30-year-old transom makes a lot of financial sense.

The 140 Suzuki 4S is a great engine for that boat, good usable speed with good economy - I don’t see any advantage in getting the 115 hp. A new engine in the 130 - 150 hp range is considered sweet for this boat and adds a lot of value. Many consider 115 hp a little underpowered.

My SC 20 has a 150 Merc EFI that suits me.

[dcobbett]

fishstu,

I agree. It's just that the proper way to do the jod seems to be from the inside, and then you end up with a lot of cutting and patching of good fiberglass.

riffraff

Your boat is very interesting (looks great, too). It's really one of the first SeaCrafts that I'd heard of that has a heavy engine and a relatively dry, standard height deck. BTW, no problem re: the trailer. Boat is now home and in the driveway.

cSickNick,

If you don't mind me asking, how lond ago did you buy, and how much did you spend? The price ranges I mentioned includ mounting and controls, tach, etc., and, at least right now, it looks like Suzuki is below other brands for comparable HP.

Trayder,

Thanks. I'll get in touch with someone at Ryder's.

ScottM,

I wouldn't call it completely restored, but it is in great shape. Hull color is off white, original off green rub rail, very small leaning post with removable Todd post and flush deck plates.

[ScottM]

dcobbett,
That's the boat.

[Bigshrimpin]

The previous owner of my MA had a transom cap made up from 1/4" welded aluminum plate made up that spans the entire transom notch. The plate raises the original transom 5" to 25". I have a 225 Merc on the back and it's rock solid (just friggin ugly).

My other MA had it's transom raised 5". Here's a shot of their work.