1973 20' CC Transom woes

[pianewman]

Thanks in advance for any input on this.

I've taken temporary possession of my dad's 1973 20' CC. I was planning on using it on Lake Anna, VA, pulling a wakeboard, as well as some fishing on Sinepuxant Bay/Chincoteague, VA. I've now been told I need a new transom.

The boat was purchased 18 months ago for $8k, on a 2002 Continental tandem trailer, and in December 2010 re-powered with a new (leftover) 2008 Mercury. ($10k)

In trying to find a leak that was filling the boat @ 2gal/15 minutes, I discovered that the area around the 2 lower engine mount bolts is crushed, and the two mounting holes were extensively filled with 3M 5200. Two separate boat repair shops at Lake Anna, VA, and a fiberglas expert in Fredericksburg, VA have advised me that the transom must be replaced. Their proof is that when you lift up on the engine, you can see the transom flexing around the mounting bolts. Also, there are several hollow sounding spots across the entire transom that don't sound like simple gelcoat delamination.

The marine shop in Fredericksburg, VA, has quoted me a price of $3800...YIKES! He replaces the entire transom, edge to edge, with a product called "Coosa", 1 1/2" thick. He would also raise the top edge of the engine cutout so that the Mercury 150 would actually rest on the cutout, instead of floating 3 1/2" above it, the way it is now, with the entire weight of the engine resting on the 4 bolts.

There are no soft spots anywhere on the deck, and all 3 gentlemen commented that it was "a great looking boat", well worth the cost of transom replacement.

Question: My dad has about $20k in the boat already, it has a fabulous T-top, on a 2002 Continental tandem trailer with a new front axle with completely new brake system. He keeps the boat in Bradenton, FL. Should I have my (almost)local guy do the job here, or drag it back to the Bradenton area and have it done there? Who might be a recommended shop (I suppose anywhere in FL) if he decides to have it done there?

Is $3800 a fair price?

Thanks again for any input. My dad owned a 73 Seafari, quickly moved up to a 1974 Tsunami I/O (the 1972-3 [?] O/B Johnson, combined with the deep transom cutout of the Seafari scared him). He sold the Tsunami, mint condition, in 1989 or 1990 in the Va Beach area. We, as a family, love the Seacraft design, but are experiencing, for the first time, the woes of a major rebuilding process.

Thanks again for reading.

Ed in Arlington, VA.

[DonV]

Hummmmm.......$3800 might be steep. Snookerd might have some contacts in Bradenton. Building the transom up 3'' or so is a good idea. Oh yeah, the engine is supposed to rest on the bolts. If you sit the engine against the top of the transom, where there is no room for vertical adjustment, you would nave to make sure you have it perfect the first time.

[pianewman]

Thanks for the quick response. I'll wait and see if snookerd weighs in...or I'll PM him.

I understand your comment about vertical adjustability. I just find it amusing that the bracket is shaped/designed to "hang" on the cutout, yet almost no new installations do that. Too many variables in cutout height, of course, and only "one size fits all" shaft lengths.

I'm hoping someone will weigh in with an opinion on my description of the transom condition, and the absolute need for new transom vs. digging out the core and filling it with ???

[DonV]

I'm hoping someone will weigh in with an opinion on my description of the transom condition, and the absolute need for new transom vs. digging out the core and filling it with ???

I did my transom with Arjay. However just "digging out the core" ain't all it's cracked up to be. To go with a ceramic pourable compound there can be no leaks in the inner skin or anywhere. The odds of getting all the old wood and crap out of a 1 1/2" creavace without poking a hole some where is slim. I went with cutting off the transom and cleaning all the way to raw fiberglass, patching all holes and re-attaching the skin. When finished the Arjay it's as hard as can be and will never rot. If you have the transom done with plywood, coosa, whatever the transom still comes off. I'm assuming you have looked a the Hermco site to see how it's done and how much is involved?

[pianewman]

Just looked at the Hermco site. I'd still need a sound transom before installing a bracket, right?
I've never been a fan of the bracket design on such a short boat, as all that weight hung out so far just doesn't make sense to me. Adding trim-tabs into the mix just gets to be too complicated for me.
I'm not thinking too clearly right now anyway, as I borrowed the boat for some leisurely boating/fishing, and it's clear that won't be happening in the next 60 days. Add a 12-year-old boy, 9-year-old girl into the mix, and there's big-time disappointment around here.

I guess I should be happy I've still got the 14' Portabote, 9.9 Nissan. It's a lot of fun, quirky, and a real head-turner as it passes other 14' boats at 18-20 mph. Obviously, it doesn't come close to the 20'CC.

[Wildman]

For around here, thats a pretty fair price. I have no idea on the cost where you are. That being said, you could probably save your self 1000-1500 by doing the demo yourself. That is the most miserable part of doing the job. If you are thinking about a hermco bracket, you will want to raise the transom ALL the way up. The nice parts about the Hermco are the weight, and the floatation tub. These both help to keep the back of the boat UP even with a heavier motor.

My 23, you can see the old outboard cutout and the new rounded top.

[Fr. Frank]

First off, it is absolutely worth the cost of a transom replacement.

Price is a different matter. $3800 would be top dollar around here, in the FLA panhandle. $2800-$3300 is closer to average cost. I got 5 bids on replacing mine and raising it to 25" in the last 6 weeks. Bid were from $1600 if I de-rigged and did the demolition (including cap removal) and re-rigging later, to $3650 for having the job done start to finish.

Doing the demolition will save you at least $1000, and can be done in about 6 hours if you can do it from the outside, 8 hours if you have to cut off the back of the cap and have an aft livewell.

[pianewman]

My, how time flies. My schedule and weather just haven't permitted moving forward at a faster pace.

It took some doing, but the tech that I asked to raise the motor kept refusing, as he is afraid I'll bring the boat back to him with an over-heated engine. He couldn't have been more clear with his protestations, and I imagine I'll get an earful when I see him tomorrow. He was reluctant to believe what I have read here, from devoted SC owners.

So, he finally raised the engine (needed to drill 4 new holes, and fill the old ones) so that the anti-cav plate should now be 1 1/2" above the level of the keel (I'll see it for the first time tomorrow, weather permitting).

I'm running a 2008 OptiMax 2-stroke, prop is 15 1/2" , 17P, Mirage Plus, getting 5200rpm at WOT, moderate load. What should I look/listen for during this shake-down cruise? I know the 2008 150hp OptiMax has overheat protection (buzzer, automatic throttle reduction), but I'm just wondering if there's anything else negative to look out for? Might it cavitate more on hard turns, and is occasional cavitation normal when plowing through wake while turning? I'm fully expecting quicker hole-shot, and more level WOT planing, with less lateral spray from the motor. Should I also expect higher top-end speed (currently around 41mph) and higher revs from the engine, as well?

Thanks agains for the help. I hope I've not come off as an insufferable newbie with all my questions.

[Bushwacker]

Do you have a water pressure gage installed? It might give you some warning of cooling water supply issues before it overheats.

[pianewman]

I agree that Fr. Frank deserves a "tip of the hat". He's gently told me what to do, over and over...I've got my dad speaking into my other ear, though, and his mid-west stubborness is slowing me down..

FishStretcher...where is your anti-cav plate when at rest, motor all the way in? What's the width of your large Hydro-Shield? I was told they don't make it anymore, and Fr. Frank recommended the medium anyway, because he thinks the large flexes too much?

Any cavitation with directional changes at WOT? I would think ACplate OUT of the water 1 1/2" might create some cooling issues?

Rained out today...upper 40s f...I'm a wimp...fishing should be fun...