Hard Top

[strick]

I've taken a break from the grunt work involved with redoing the stern of the 23SC by trying to be creative in building a hard top and electronics box. Even though it will not be till spring when I put it on the boat, it is a fun project. This is my first attempt at making molds and has been a great learning experience. One thing that I can say is that $2000.00 for a hard top without all the pipes to hold it up is worth the price [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] As always I appreciate all comments good or bad.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/Hard%20Top/Hard%20Top/

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/Seacraft%20Surgery/

Strick

[Capt Chuck]

Strick

Looks like a TOP PRO JOB! [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
I need you here in FL to do my glass work! [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img] Keep those pictures coming!! [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[abl1111]

Strick,

GREAT work ! Really ! You look like you're a pro. That job is first rate. How is it working w/ biax glass ? And, it looks like your working exclusively w/ epoxy - what brand and how's that going for you ? Any vacuum bagging ?

I would like to ask you about the electronics mold/box you made. I want to make (2) fiberglass boxes that will mount to the floor and have pedestal seats that mount to the boxes ( I will then make a tackle center out of one box and a fish well for the other ). This is for a Tsunami.

What material did you use to make the mold out of ? What is that white material you used to get that really smooth radius /curve ? What did you use as a mold release ( was it sprayed on ? ) Was this whole mold manufacture, lay-up a bitch ?

Being that I only need two boxes, would it be easier to just make the boxes out of ply wood ( or synthetic-stuff ) and glass over, sand smooth, then gelcoat, then sand and polish ?

What'cha think ?

[EBEACH]

Strick, nice job! The molds look like a lot of work, but they will pay off in the end. Too bad you don't need about 5 T-tops.

I don't think you need to put down the laminate over the MDF. I think you could just seal it with a quick coat of epoxy, sand it smooth, and then wax it.

Keep the pictures coming, It's great to see your project. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] What are you using for your core, and how well does it lay up? Costs?

Thanks.

[strick]

Thanks for the comments. Both the Electronics box mold and the hard top mold were made with some 1/2 inch fiberboard. The hard top mold also has formica glued to the fiberboard. I beveled all corners and turns with microbubbles mixed with epoxy. I then coated the inside of the e-box mold with epoxy. As you can see from the pics I had to destroy e-box mold to get the unfinished product out. Probably because I did not use a releasing agent. I just put 3 coats of wax and buffed each coat. The sides freed ok but the corners and bottom would not work loose so I finally decided to just take apart the mold. Also I only put one coat of primer (Duratec EZ white Sanding Primer)on it which is why it looks blotchy. I'll sand and put on more primer later. I've been using epoxy 5/1 ratio that I've been getting from Fiberglass Hawaii. I like working with the 1708 biaxial except that it eats up the resin. On the hard top I ended up with a seam in the formica down the middle so I microbubbled over it and still was not happy with the seam so I decided to put a good coat of epoxy over the whole thing. I waxed the whole thing 3 times and buffed between each coat. Tomorrow I'm going to pop it off [img]images/icons/confused.gif[/img] hopfully. For the bottom of the hard top I'm going to sand/microbubble and then put two good coats of the white sanding primer over it. I've rolled or brushed everything. No spraying. For large layups like on the hard top just pour on the epoxy and spread with a large flat trowel. I learned from Trayder on this site about how to make the flat molding table. I've made a couple flat panels for practice and waxing without a releasing agent works well here.

abl111- I would make molds instead of layering over something. Yes it is a bitch but you will be happier in the end if done right.

EBEACH what does MDF stand for? I used 3/8 inch core cell for the core material. It's probably going to cost $500.00 when it's finished.

I really wanted a hard top like the one in the yellowfin pic however I could not find anyone that made anything like it. Price quotes I got for new hard tops are in the 1500-2000 range. Unfortunately we do not have a Marine liquidators in N. California or I probably would have just bought a hard top from them [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I'll post more pics when it's close to completion.

Strick

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Ha Strick
You are doing a great job on that boat of yours. Guys like you make me almost wish I was starting over again because of all the extra things and insights that are going into your boats. That boat looks like it will last 100 yrs after you are done.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]