SeaDeucer Needs a Makeover. Suggestions???

[ChrisG]

I'm doing a '76 Sceptre makover.
I would like to repaint the deck but am running into problems with the non-skid pattern.
My yard recommended I grind the non-skid down flush with the rest of the gelcoat, then they can prime, paint and apply fresh non-skid uniformly accross the deck. It looks like the non-skid was installed as part of the mold and I would be reducing the structural integrity if I took too much off. I suppose the other option is to fill the channels with thickened epoxy then sand the deck flush with the raised surface. Either way this looks like a ton of work, and all I wanted to do was prep for painting. I remember another SeaCraft afficionado who masked each line then reapplied non-skid only to the stripes, I think it might end up looking worse if I were to try that.
Does anyone have any other suggestions on prepping the deck for paint/non-skid?

[Mark]

sometimes a little work is necessary. I doubt your non-skid creates ANY structural integrity, but stranger things have happened.... [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

[Scott]

Chris ….Just a matter of how much you want the original pattern and how much time you want to spend (and or $$$)…. (and/or how crazy you are [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] )

I was able to recreate the pattern from scratch....to match the rest of the deck....Its looking for a paint job now [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Before



During



Almost finished....just needs primer and paint




The casting platform was “pinched” by a fighting chair mounting plate ….destroyed the top skin …and let water in causing the core to rot ….. ½” masking tape (I think Fine Line by 3M ) is the perfect size for the smooth channels between the “planks” ….Its really not that hard …..labor intensive but not rocket science Plus I was not up for grinding the WHOLE deck smooth....Fiberglass dust ...It's not a Good Thing!!!

[Billybob]

I masked mine off the retain the original pattern.It was pretty easy.You can buy the tape at autobody shops, cut to the exact width.Use a razor blade at the tops to get the radius.I'm actually thinking of doing it over this year with the non skid in a little darker off-white.Think it would look good.All in all, I think masking is easier than grinding it down and fairing.



Bill

[Capt Chuck]

Chris
Scott is right on!

In this case, grinding the deck and trying to smooth it out would be shooting from the hip and not a good decision here. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Lets face it, there is no easy way out when it comes to any major boat repair. You can “Gun Deck” it or “Do it Right” the first time [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I think you can get your deck in ship shape yourself with just a little planning up front and take your time.
First I would choose a good two part marine paint that can be brushed or rolled on as well as sprayed. “Fellowship” has done an excellent job on his boat with Sterling brand using the brush and tip method. Both Awlgrip and Imron can be brushed or rolled with the proper mixture. I used Signature Finish, which is Acrylic Urethane Enamel, which requires no primer! Assuming your deck has no soft spots underneath and is ready to go, I would purchase a 2-part epoxy-patching compound like “Fasco Fas-tone” You can patch all the nicks, scratches and spider cracks. It’s ready to sand in a few hours. I think your boat being a ’76 the deck is well worn and the sheen on the gel coat is gone, therefore heavy sanding would not be required. I would probably paint the inner liner first. If just doing the deck, then I would wash it thoroughly after the patching and light sanding is completed. Next I would wipe the deck with acetone and mask off the sides and around the console etc. thus preventing splattering. I would then roll out a coat of paint on the entire deck. The next step would be to get the ½” 3M brand blue #471 plastic tape as Scott mentioned. You can make nice curves as well as straight lines and carefully mask all areas that you don’t want the non-skid. Then you need to rub the tape well using soft tee shirt material and your finger to ensure the edges are tight to the deck. This will prevent the paint from seeping underneath. Take your time and run the tape down the old lines maintaining the original non-skid pattern. Now your ready to go! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Mix your paint according to the manufacture’s directions and add the grit. I think a 50/50 mix of coarse and fine is sufficient. Be sure to add the grit to the paint; don’t sprinkle it on! I used the following mixture: 8-2-4-2 (8 parts paint, 2 parts catalyst, 4 parts thinner/brushing fluid, 2 parts grit). The mixture can be brushed on heavy using a throw away brush. Brush on approx 2’x2’ area at a time. Then come back with the “lift loop” roller, I posted a pic in a previously thread, and smooth out your paint. Then do another section each time rolling back over the section you rolled out before. This will prevent overlapped marks. [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] You will be surprised how nice it comes out! [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] The initial prep is the toughest part. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] Anytime you get a ding you can just mix a small amount and do a quick repair. You can email me if you have more questions or want further detail. Good Luck!

Sorry everyone for the long post. I hope the advice helps. I’m sure other CSC members who have done this like “Fellowship” & "Trayder" can give some very good pointers also. Good Luck! [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[John R]

Capt Chuck - I think the previous owner of Scott's boat used the "Gun Deck" method and mounted a 50cal on the casting deck, thus causing Scott's need to cut & replace that panel...


Do you have pics even more close up on the non-skid? Did you do the same on the deck cap/gunnel?


Thanks!

John

[abl1111]

I am going to be re-gelcoating my i/o engine cover ( it has standard SC non skid on it too ).

I am going to sand the 1/2" smooth gelcoat by hand w/ 120 - 220 grit, or so. Then I am going to take a narrow wire brush - you know the type, it's like 1" wide and 10" long w/ a wooden handle, and I'm going to lightly roughen up the non-skid.

Then, I'm going to spray the whole thing ( gelcoat ) - I do not need or want new non-skid here - it's ggod enough, but if I did, I would tape off the different sections and spray twice - adding grit where wanted.

Note: I once painted gelcoat on a non-skid floor on a sailboat and a lot of the grit 'sunk' to the bottom of the layup. So, be sure to mix the application can w/ the grit very well and often - and do not lay it on too thick or the heavier grit will sink and not be at the surface of your application - giving you less of a non-skid effect.

[Capt Chuck]

John

"Gun Decking" was an old Navy term us Boatswains Mates would use to describe painting over the running rust without proper preping (sanding and adding primers such as zinc chromate & redlead) [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Yes, I did non-skid the top deck. I don't know how "close up" you want? It's hard to transfer the pics but anyway here's a shot of the top deck and main deck pattern.

[Dave Hirshberg]

Chris, I've done it both ways. First time(23 Sceptre) I sanded it all down and nonskided(griptex in awlgrip} the entire floor. A lot of time and the floor never seemed to stay clean looking. This time(20 Sceptre) I hand sanded the smooth lines and used a 6in pad sander with 80 on the nonskid lines. Problem is if you go too deep you'll spend a lot of time filling pin holes you created with filler and primer. I primed the deck two times just to fill them. Then 3 coats paint, then fine line tape(1/2") and finally nonskid. The pattern came out really nice. I sprayed water on it in the pic to give it contrast for the camera. Hard work no matter how you do it. [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
[image] http://www.theboatzone.com/albums/album09/fuel_lid_painted_2.jpg[/image]

[Dave Hirshberg]

Lets try that again.