Through hull placement

[Briguy]

I decided to plumb my livewell through my existing transom hole from the origonal livewell on my 1978 23' cc. It works ok but being on the stern, I cannot get water in while under way. I knew this going into the project but thought I'd try it anyhow. Being in Fla, bait dies quickly in an 88+ degree livewell without lots of oxygen and constant fresh water. Now that I know it will not work for my application what do I do? The fuel tank is so huge on this boat I can barely get my hand down to the bilge pumps and the thought of drilling a hole in the bottom of my boat scares the bejeasus out of me. I am also concerned about interfearance with the props or trailer bunks. Any help or suggestions on where to place a bronze scoop style pick up would be helpful. Thanks.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

You need a scoop either through the bottom of your hull or on the transom mounted like a transducer that is mounted on the outside of the transom under the water line. Then you could run a line up the transom and into you tank through the transom. Through the hull is by far the best way to go but the other way would work but would look like crap.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

[Briguy]

Fellowship, My flats boat pulls water through the stern and had a threaded end on it. I got a right angle pvc fitting and twisted it on. Now when I need the well to run, I turn the fitting down so it can pick up water when I'm on the fly. I turn it up when I don't need it. My SeaCraft has one of those bronz through hulls that I probably can't do that with. As far as mounting the pump on the outside and running a hose, no way, to basterdized looking. Guess I'll have to drill a hole in the bottom of the boat. I just don't know exactly where. My only advice I have gotten is to put it at least 3-4ft in front of the motors.

[Scott]

Brian

My livewell (‘76) was affixed to the inside hull bottom using a huge pile of cabosil putty/resin … I would think this was done when the boat was manufactured…or at least I assume. The port side (side that follows the contour of the bilge) of the well was pushed into the cabosil to fill the gap between the well’s underside and the bilge. That made a solid block of glass about two inches thick. Then the thru hulls (2) and pickups were drilled and mounted through this area….inches in front of the transom thru hull and I would guess 8-10” off the center line (single engine). I don’t care for this setup but if you’ve got no room in the bilge due to the fuel tank for a ball valve and thru hull this worked on this boat.

I’m not by the boat ….but I’ll look to see if I have a picture of the holes left by the thru hulls.

[Capt Chuck]

Briguy

Since you also have a '78 CC like me I will show you what has worked on my boat over the years. I will be tearing it out of coarse when I go the bracket route in October.

On the Port side on the engine along side the original well I put in a Daytona Plastic "snap out" inspection plate. You could use any one that seals good like Rabud or Armstrong also. Once inside I went "thru Hull" with a bronze scoop and a seacock valve (required by the CG) and a water strainer. Then plummed to a Baitmaster Pro pump and then into the livewell thru it's side wall. The pump also serves as my washdown pump. The scoop thru the hull was sealed with 4200. The scoop in this area is not effected by the trailer bunks or engines. It provides good water flow either at rest or underway at any speed

[strick]

Briguy-

You have twins and a bracket so I dont think that a thru hull will interfere with your props. Here is how did mine. The scoop is just offset the center keel stringer and about 18 inches forward the transom. Just make sure that you use a Seacock and not a regular ball valve. The seacock is secured with lag screws into the wooden block. It is very secure and YOU feel secure with this set up.











Strick

[Briguy]

Strick, Scott, Chuck and Fellowship, Thanks. Looks like I have a new project to do after the 4th. Now I can use the perko bronze scoop through hull I bought at a marine flea market for 3 bucks. I'll let you know how it all works out.

[optiguy]

Strick;
Question, why did you glass over the wood? I have a bunch of reasons why that's a really bad idea, but maybe you know something I don't.
Bill

[strick]

Strick;
Question, why did you glass over the wood? I have a bunch of reasons why that's a really bad idea, but maybe you know something I don't.
Bill

Bill-

Boy you got me stumped. That block is secure as all get out and I dont have to worry about the wood rotting. If I ever have to get out the bronze thru hull scoop then it will be a bit of a pain getting to the bolts but thats the only reason I can think of. What are you thinking?

Strick

[optiguy]

I have found that over the years that the wood will rot no matter how good you seal it. Especially plywood. It will will be many years, but it will rot. Mostly because it is in a wet environment and fiberglass always has some microscopic porosity. It will take years, but it will rot.
My big concern is what if you do have to remove it for whatever reason. And I can site an example from a boat I fixed last summer. The repair involved repairing the shaft and strut that met up with some rocks. Amazingly, a scoop like yours was also torn right off the bottom. No damage to the hull, just the body of the scoop. Even the screws were still in the boat. My point is s**t happens. I have been on boats my whole life with nothing more than the thru hull bedded to a mahagony block. I applaud your effort, I just think it's way overkill and could make your life misrable in the future. Sorry if I scared you and for my rambling. I just came in from bottom painting the boat I use. Next year it's water based bottom paint for me.
Bill