Master Angler Deck Replacement

GradySailfish · #1 02-11-2006, 10:03 PM

The boat yard I bought my 78 20 MA from has finally unburied her from the back thier yard. She's now home and waiting for restoration.

The two main conerns are a new deck and a new transom. The deck is something that interests me most at this time. Around the sides there are drainage channels that lead into the scuppers at the back of the boat. If I replace the deck, I'd like to keep those so my plan is the following: Cut along the inside of that channel...cut carefully! Remove the deck pieces and re-core if possible, if removal in one piece is feasiable I intend to replace the floor with either marine ply or NIDA Core. Most importantly I intend to leave the drainiage channel around the edge in tact. When I out the deck back in place, I hope to put it back exaclty how I removed it. First I would add a lip around the underside of the channel, so the new deck would sit higher then the channel, basically I would replicate what I have now.

My questions are..is my plan a good idea? Second is the deck laminated to the stringers? Is it possible to remove and recore the existing floor, thereby keeping the surface gelcoat? Should I also raise the entire deck a couple inches to facilitate better selfbailing capabilities? I heard the earlier 20's had "wet feet" issues.

Thanks in advance.

Suggestions or pointers about the transom are also welcome.

Will post pics in a few days.

Jaizzen · #2 02-11-2006, 11:17 PM

Congrats on the new boat. Best of luck on the restore. I dont know for sure if you can cut the old deck off in one piece and recore it but someone here will let ya know. I just removed my deck and I don't see how it could come out in one peice. It is stuck down in place by some type on thick fibeglass filler in about 50 different places. Not sure if your boat was constructed the same way but check out this link to my restore for some underdeck photos that may help. There are also tons on information if you use the search function. Best of luck, Jason

http://forum.classicseacraft.com/sho...b=5&o=&fpart=1

Scott · #3 02-13-2006, 02:56 AM

Grady
I dont recall issues with water on the deck like with the SF .... Several guys have the MA so hopefully they will give some insight [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

Picture , Pictures .....

TUGBOAT · #4 02-13-2006, 10:08 AM

My deck doesn't get all that wet.I put the Ball Scuppers in & just keep the plugs in. Occasionally I'll get water in & will pull the plug & it drains.Anchoring stearn to will force water in or backing down.The MA has a High Gunnel for those Rough offshore fishing trips, I wouldn't want to loose that by raising the deck.Course WET feet feels good down here from March to Nov. ! [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

GradySailfish · #5 02-13-2006, 11:35 AM

Capt. Brad, wet feet are sometimes good, around here, it's usually from early July to mid September, then wet feet become a problem!

The high gunnels are something I love about that boat....If I do raise the deck an inch or two probably won't make a difference. AFter looking her over closer, I think that when I do raise the deck I'll get rid of the drainage channel thereby raising the corner scuppers themselves an inch or two.

I'll be following your advice and removing the top cap, then reglassing the top-cap. The way it is now it's rather weak. Did you core the top-cap or just add some fiberglass. I'd like to add ribs or stringers between the inside of the top-cap and theside of the hull.

TUGBOAT · #6 02-13-2006, 02:34 PM

Just re-core it. I wouldn't add any other bracing under that.It will be strong enough.You'll add to much weight.Although ~ when I added the Rhino liner the Bow stays in & She rides much cleaner , Less Wet ! Don't have to use the Tabs as much unless the Chop is Quartering.Lost speed due to the Xtra #'s .I also like the drains being lower as My TOES have a place to Grip when reaching over to pull the Sirens (Mermaids) In ! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] Keeps the small trash/leaves/swivels/beer tops ,Champagne Korks etc off the deck,They get caught in the corners.
Tug [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

Bigshrimpin · #7 02-13-2006, 03:52 PM

Drainage - My 1976 MA drains go straight down through the floor (like the SF) . . . My feet will get wet if stand in the corner and when the plugs are out. I just run with plugs in which is no big deal. I also have a center drain (which looks like it was added later - regular 1" drain hole) in the back channel which drains into the bilge and any water that splashes into the cockpit goes down can drain down into the bilge and get pumped out the automatic bilge pump.

As far as soft spots go . . . I would do spot repairs on the deck and just recore the areas that have gone bad. There's no sense in ripping up the floor that is 90% solid.

Just cut the top skin off with a circular saw (set to less 1/4") replace the rotten core (balsa) . . . clean up the underside of the skin and glass the skin back on the new core.