1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question

Blue197320 · #1 11-25-2006, 03:31 AM

hey guys,
finally decided to take the boat and put it under the knife. plans are , 200 merc added. adding bennett m-120 trim tabs.

the holes have been drilled and there was some shmeg water

but no flexing not much i will do right now.

next thing happening is console modification. i had the giant console in here.

oh no 8 inches fell out!

now in the reconstruction stage.

finally i am cleaning up the splashwell. previous owner had way too many holes in there for me.

ok now my question is, id like to find the cleanest, best looking way to get the harness and hydraulic steering hoses to the motor. was looking at t&h motor rigging kit. does anyone have experience with that? or have any better way to do this? thanks.

Ikan Besar · #2 11-25-2006, 01:41 PM

Quote:

ok now my question is, id like to find the cleanest, best looking way to get the harness and hydraulic steering hoses to the motor.

There is likely a whole host of ways of accomplishing your goal, here is a "stuff them all in a hose" method:

Blue197320 · #3 11-25-2006, 10:04 PM

!!!!!!!!!
where did u get those hydraulic bulkhead fittings!?!?!? i need those !!!

Ikan Besar · #4 11-25-2006, 11:05 PM

Wildfire Marine, ph.772.286.1925 (tell him you are inquiring about the fittings on "Mark's SeaCraft 20').

warthog5 · #5 11-26-2006, 03:56 AM

Actually you don't want that style and here's why.

Any chafing is going to occur where the hoses are exposed in the splashwell.

Those hose's are one piece. Even the support deal is attached to the hose.

A better setup is 4 hose's and a bulkhead fitting kit. The 3/4in kit should work fine for this type install.

The advantage is this. if a hose is chafed that is exposed it's a quick and easy exchange to change a 2fy long hose and you don't have to pull the whole hose out of the rigging.

That's how mine is but with a bracket and going thru the transom I have the 3in bulkhead fitting's.

Here's the Teleflex part #'s.

Bulkhead fitting kit = Part # HF5512

Here's the page to pick the part #'s for hose's.
http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBO...ose_Tube.htm&1

Surplus Unlimited in Daytona has the best price's. They beat the price's I got on 3 other quote's and that included having to pay Fl. sales tax.

hermco · #6 11-26-2006, 12:18 PM

I disagree. The way Hogwart wants to do it would add four more hose end fittings, the two bulkhead fittings and more places for leaks and corrosion. In my experience the problems with steering hoses develop at the fittings. I would keep it as simple as possible. Leave enough slack somewhere to be able to change out the fittings at the cyl. if needed in the future and you should enjoy many years of uninterrupted service.

Blue197320 · #7 11-26-2006, 02:59 PM

so is the fitting on marks 20 something that i can put over my existing hose? or do i need to get a new hose altogether?

warthog do u have any pics of ur steering setup on ur mako?

Blue197320 · #8 11-27-2006, 01:35 AM

does anyone have a reason why i should not use wood flour and resin mixed to mayonnaise or peanut butter to fill the 3/4" holes for the actuator? since the holes do not need to be that big i was going to fill them with that mixture and drill a 9/16" (i beleive) hole for the tube. any other suggestions?

Blue197320 · #9 11-28-2006, 01:18 AM

no one has any cons of using wood flour ? im trying to stay as watertight as possible here

oldbluesplayer · #10 11-28-2006, 02:24 PM

Hey Blue - I guess in a possible water contact application I would not use wood flour - there are other, better choices -

Don't know what resin you're using, but check out West Systems - they have a variety of fillers / thickeners that will do what you want to thicken up some resin, which I believe will work equally well with either epoxy or polyester resins - just a thought for you.

The console work looks like it's coming out nice !!!

keep the pix coming!

Bill