Looking for used 20' Seacraft - need advice

Ogaff · #1 03-13-2007, 11:06 PM

I currently have a 17 ft Boston Whaler Montauk, looking to upgrade to a 20' Seacraft. Issues with Whaler are it is a rough ride, even in normally calm Cape Cod bay, also powered by '88 Evirude which sucks gas. Looking at a mid seventies to mid eighties Seacraft CC with new power, perhaps 2-4 yr old engine. Need some guidance.

1) What do you get on Potter Build hull vs pre/post potter, is something that can be quantified (stronger hull design) or is it just a classic. What years are considered potter built?

2) I have owned whalers for a long time , comfortable with self bailing , "unsinkable" boats with low maintenance. I understand that the '70 20' Seacraft are not self bailing but, at some point mid '80s they did go self bailing, can anyone tell me what year this happened. The thought of relying on a bilg pump and battery in 4-5 foot seas for saftey is somewhat concerning.

3)I have heard various opinions on putting a 4 stroke on a 20' CC Seacraft, is it to heavy an engine, or performance wise are you better off going with 2 staroke?

4)Any opinions on buying a new 20' Key Largo vs used Sea craft, I have been told the Key Largo hull is the Sea Craft hull which the patent expired on and was picked up by Key Largo, any comments (fact/fiction)?

JW-Tex · #2 03-14-2007, 09:22 AM

1. I owned a 20 Whaler Outrage-I prefer my 20 Seacraft it does not rattle my teeth.
2. 1980 and prior-opinion better hull lay up. I have two bilge pumps and an emergency pump. I really only use them when my bait tank overflows.
3. Running a 140 Suzuki 4 stroke-very good match for the hull. Batteries mounted in console and console moved forward for better weight distribution.
4. Owned a 16 foot key Largo when I bought my Seacraft and the Key Largo build quality is entry level but gets the job done (I don't think many people will be rehabing 30 year old Key Largos).

pski · #3 03-14-2007, 10:17 AM

I own a 20ft. 1986 seacraft powered by a 140 Suzuki 4stroke.I also fish the same normally calm Cape Cod Bay. Boat is perfect except on days of north blowing winds.Hull is self bailing and has gotten me home safely in some unexpected 4-5foot seas.

oldbluesplayer · #4 03-14-2007, 11:52 AM

note - the 70's SeaCraft 20's -Are- self bailing, unless someone has done a modification and removed that -

motor choice - kind of depends on whether you have a 20" or a 25" transom. On a 25", the Suzuki 140 is an excellant choice, based on a number of users here. On a 20" transom, perhaps better to stick with a 4 cylinder - 2 stroke, to keep motor weight down.

the Potter built years are handlaid fiberglass, with one of the strongest layup schedules ever used in a boat this size.

and yes, it will outride just about any other boat you care to match it with, size for size.

and I never would have believed that, until I got mine.

Bill

SteveH · #5 03-14-2007, 11:08 PM

I own a 17 ft. Montauk (since 1996) and the ride is very rough. Before I bought my 2000 23 ft. seacraft which is my current offshore boat, My father and I had a 1978 20' (potter built) seacraft master angler that we purchased brand new and picked it up at the factory which was in Homestead (Miami area) at the time. We had it built with a 25inch transom, which was an option. It turned out to be the right decision as we fished primarily offshore from Tarpon Springs, Florida until we sold it in 1995 (still regret the decision). I agree with Oldbluesplayer that you want to stay light if you get a 20" transom. If it was me, I would add the five inches right away if the boat you buy has a 20" transom , especially if you want to go offshore. Our hull was self-bailing. In 18 yrs. no issues - even minor ones - with the Potter built hull.
The ride on a 20 ft seacraft is fantastic and 100 times better than the 17ft. BW... Not even close. As with any old hull, make sure the transom is sound, no soft spots on deck and no issues with the gas tank.

eggsuckindog · #6 03-15-2007, 01:12 AM

Just a note, mine has a 20" transom and they put some Starboard on top of the transom, about 5" and it works very well to keep the splashing down just an FYI, but weight of the motor is still very critical as mine with 406# gushes when you walk back there but will clear at anything above an idle.

HatTrick · #7 03-15-2007, 01:35 PM

I have a 1986 SC20' CC with a 2005 4-stroke 150 Yamaha. The motor has plenty of get up and go, but is probably the max in weight for the 25" transom on my boat. If two people stand in the stern water will come in thru the drains, but it drains fine otherwise. I have a friend with a 135 erude that he says has plenty of power for his 1970's SC20. I did move my batteries (2) under the console and I removed the unnecessary oil reservoir left behind from the old 150 merc black max. Hope this helps.

Ogaff · #8 03-15-2007, 05:39 PM

I understand all Seacraft have plugs in the rear to drain but my understanding is that in earlier models they were skuppers which were below the water line (more to be used for draining off once you have the boat back on a trailer). I thought that sometime in the eighties the drains were moved above the water line such that you could drain water on a plane, and did not have to worry about the plugs being out and waking to the back of the boat and having water shoot stright up and start flooding the boat. Is this the case or did I get some bad info along the way...did they chnage the design in mid 80s?

RS · #9 03-15-2007, 07:43 PM

Quote:

I understand all Seacraft have plugs in the rear to drain but my understanding is that in earlier models they were skuppers which were below the water line (more to be used for draining off once you have the boat back on a trailer). I thought that sometime in the eighties the drains were moved above the water line such that you could drain water on a plane, and did not have to worry about the plugs being out and waking to the back of the boat and having water shoot stright up and start flooding the boat. Is this the case or did I get some bad info along the way...did they chnage the design in mid 80s?

It seems that around 1979 or so the drain wend from through the bottom to out the transom at about the water line or a little below. This lets you use the ping pong scuppers to prevent water from shooting in when stopping.

SteveH · #10 03-15-2007, 11:55 PM

Just to add to my previous post: our 1978 20' master angler had through holes for the motor well and it had two drain holes, through the transom, which were right at the water line (maybe slightly above) They would spend some time below the water line, but we had litte black rubber doohickies (we used to call them duckbills, but dont know their technical name) that would allow water to drain but not enter the boat. We always carried an extra one or two and replaced them every couple of years or so. Water drained out fine on our boat and we occassionally went out in weather we probably should not have.