1990 Johnson Question/Opinion

[Iceboy149]

So, I bought the SeaCraft a few months ago and have been working on the trailer, have the Interlux Perfection on hand and am waiting for my sander from Amazon.

Here's the question: I have a dealer who has a 1990 200hp Johnson 2-stroke VRO 25" (counter rotating) with very low hours on it, selling it for a friend whom he's serviced it for over 8 years. The inside is clean, very clean. Everything looks great with the exception of the tiller arm with some rust on it. I have a 20' 1983 CC and honestly asking if you guys think it's a good deal for the $1800 we settled on today. I won't be done with her for at least 10 months and feel like I'm jumping the gun but I see a lot of dealers throughout my weeks on the road and they're all over his price. The compression was between 95-100 on all 6 cylinders, steel prop, and started first turn of the key this afternoon. Maybe I just need some reassurance before a big purchase like this. I left the realm of the 13'-15' Boston Whaler club and being 25 myself, $1800 hurts no matter how you slice it. Anyone feel like offering up some advice? I feel like I spend more time looking on Ebay and Craigslist looking for motors which could now be spent on sanding and picking out everything else I need. Just think of doing this purchase on a $1300 every two week salary, my savings account gets cut into two thirds. Regardless, thanks for the website, I'm on here a ton during the week and have gotten a ton of god ideas in the forums learning how to pull old fuel tanks and other issues. Thanks again.

[Michael Vezzosi]

Welcome Iceboy. I am by no means an expert here, but see that you were up late again scouring the internet. I'm sure the experts will chime in to help out as the day wears on but here is my $.02.

I have always been told that a hull that has been turning a clockwise prop (screw) should always continue in that direction. By reversing, the hull will be subject to the opposite direction of torque, and have heard that it will begin to "unscrew". Makes sense to me. I'd hold off on purchasing a counter-rotating engine.

As you know better deals come up in late summer, and people always seem to get the itch to repower as new product line is offered with all the usual perks to push these people over the edge. Thats about 9 months of saving. Just imagine what that could PRODUCE! Good luck and enjoy working on your new project.

Funny but my 1982 15 Whaler is the reason my 20 SeaCraft never sees the water anymore.

[ScottM]

Iceboy,
I have an '89 225 which is the same engine that you're looking at, and although it smokes like a bastard and drinks fuel like no tomorrow, it runs well and is reliable. The previous owner put a rebuilt lower unit on it which happens to be counter rotating even though the engine itself was right-hand/clockwise from the factory. In talking with my mechanic there is no down side to this set-up. Just remember to buy a left-hand prop if you need a new one (I didn't ).

Regarding Vezo's comment about "unscrewing", I have no expert opinion, but it seems a bit far fetched to me. A boat is built in a manner that does not favor the prop's rotation. My Seabird was used for 1 season before I bought it with the counter-rotating lower unit and 1 season after I bought it. There doesn't appear to be any additional stress cracks or other signs of "unscrewing".

[eggsuckindog]

The counters will bring less on the resale market period, not exactly sure why but they do, not that thats a bad price just don't know. I don't adhere to the hull theory either but do all other points above, thirsty compared to later motors but very reliable and every mechanic can fix them. You do have alot of work sounds like and next winter may be a better time just for the season and the fact above more repowers with another new model year.

[Billybob]

I have an 87 225 Evinrude and have wanted to repower for years, in fact I just blew my lower unit last fall and I got a used one to throw on this week.
Those motors are bulletproof and reliable, but smokey and thirsty as noted above.
I'm sticking with it until the kid gets out of college at least.
I don't buy the C/R story either, in fact I was going to put one on mine, but the pinion was shot.
In fact, I got a lefty viper prop I have to sell.

The steady compression is good, and the price seems about right. It may seem like a lot, but go and price other options and you'll see that it's not.
Every tiller arm I have ever seen on those get rusty, trim motors too - put some por-15 on them.
I went with a non VRO fuel pump and mix my own now, no problems there.
It all comes down to $, and as far as $ go, I don't think you'll do much better.

[ScottM]

In fact, I got a lefty viper prop I have to sell.

What size?

[Billybob]

It's a 17 pitch, used one season excellent shape.