Questions for spetre owners

[riptide]

Hello all,I just started ripping into my new to me 77 spetre.Looks like I'll have to replace the fuel tank.The hatches are in bad shape too.My question is what have you guys done to make those hatches water tight and still have access to the blidge and batteries?
Also has anyone relocated the batteries to a better area?
I also have this pie plate on the deck behind the helm chair but there is nothing under it except foam.Can't figure out why its there.
Here are a few pics.







Guess I'll be rewiring the whole electrical system too.What a mess.

I would also like to change the scuppers so they exit the transom above the water line.Has anyone done this that could give me some pointers?

Thanks for any help in advance. Jerry

[joema]

Iput scuppers out back when doing trannsom glad i did tubes were in bad shape used TH flaper scupper happy with 80scepter 250 suk mounted inboot stripe used pvc flex pool pipe to inside conner on trailer hold alittle water but at mooring ok under way ok

[Capt Chuck]

Makoman

"Hermco" would be the guy to ask for advice. You need to get those batteries above the deck!!
But here is a couple ideas you could do and still maintain your floor configuration.

The original floor scuppers were glassed in. The floor holes were sleeved 90* out thru the transom



Before I enclosed my transom, I built a gutter system by spliting PVC pipe in half and glassing it around the inside edge of the deck hatch.The water run-off was funneled to the floor scuppers.



The only problem here was the floor hatch had to be modified so it fit tight against the splashwell. You will see in the picture the "curve" to the back side. Then the hatch was hinged to the splashwell.

[abl1111]

Makoman, You raise a great question.

I have a '75 Tsunami w/ an IO. I have a hatch between the helm and passenger seat that needs to be water-proofed as it is the only place that allows rainwater to get into my bilge area. My bilge would be dry as a bone other wise.

I would want to make the deck/hatch seam totally water- proof.

Making the the 'gutter/drain system' the way Capt Chuck did is great if you can let gravity drain to the scuppers. I have the 'ole thru-the-floor scuppers so my drain water would have to be plumbed w/ a pump to get it up and out.

Any ideas ?

[riptide]

The only problem I see with the gutter/drain system is it getting cloged easily.I shark fish alot and the deck gets pretty nasty with fish guts and all.
I was thinking about moving the batteries into the the storage compartment between the seats and then sealing up the hatches and cutting in some TH marine sure seal hatches for access.I don't want to rely on bilge pumps to remove rain water or nasty wash down water.Everything should go out the scuppers.
Keep the ideas coming. Thanks

[Bushwacker]

Don't know how much of a gap you have between hatch and deck, but here's an idea based on what I've observed with my gas tank hatch, which was originally caulked/sealed with silicone. I pulled up the hatch to inspect the tank right after I got the boat. Most of the silicone stuck to the hatch and not the deck. What if you put some heavy paste wax on the deck around the hatch, clean the edge of the hatch real good with acetone, and then caulk it with silicone. The silicone should not stick to the wax, but if it sticks well to the sides of the hatch (you could even sand it a bit after cleaning), you'd basically have a "formed in place" gasket that might keep most of the water out. Could also put some thin (~1/16") shims under the hatch before you caulk it, then there would be a little compression on the resulting "gasket" after you remove the shims. Not as elegant a solution as Capt. Chucks, but a whole lot easier!

[htillman]

I have sealed these hatches with silicone with success. They must be clean and silicone applied to the deck ledge. Then install the hatch. I tape the hatch and deck area and then fill the gap with silicone and wipe/push down with my finger, keeping it clean as I go, dipping your finger in water after cleaning and working the silicone makes it easy. You cannot let the silicone skin over. Or you will have a mess. I have learned a good pointer on the website, lie 80 pound mono in the bottom silicone so removal of the hatch at a later date will be simpified.

[abl1111]

Bush - I don't know how durable or effective that would be ? I understand what you're describing, but sand, fish guts etc might make that set-up breakdown quick.

I always thought that a thin, durable, closed-cell, adhesive, rubber gasket or weatherstrip placed on the deck's horizontal lip ( where the hatch closes ) would be the best option to make a water-tight seal. That, along with a strong latch - which I already have installed.

Note: My hatch used to be screwed down, covering a 2nd fuel tank. I removed the tank and made the area for needed storage. I put the hatch on a SS piano hinge and put SS latches for positive closure. Works great, but I really want to keep my bilge dry. I have played with the idea of using the area for a fish locker and adding a macerator to the hatch drain and pumping it all over board - this would keep the bilge from getting water, but then this storage/locker would fill with rain water !?


ET3 - you're describing to silicone the hatch down permanently - or at least till you cut it back out. We're looking for a way to keep the hatch in use and waterproof.

[Bushwacker]

Bush - I don't know how durable or effective that would be ? I understand what you're describing, but sand, fish guts etc might make that set-up breakdown quick.

The silicone is still stuck to my tank hatch 36 years after it was installed! Of course I don't open it often, but I left the screws out so I can quickly open it to check for leaks around sending unit gasket after I fill the tank. I used some foam weatherstrip gasket around my cabin hatch and it didn't hold up that well, although it was some cheap stuff from HD. . maybe there is better stuff available now. I think the silicone would be a lot more durable as long as it sticks well. Maybe could create an additional secondary seal by adding a thin bead of Si around bottom lip of hatch after the stuff on the sides cures.

[abl1111]

I always wanted to try something:

Clean the that lip well w/ acetone, sand it nice and flat, clean again, then add a uniform 1/2" high x 1/2" wide bead of very durable silicone, and while still wet, place a flat wood 'jig' over all (4) sides of the lip - almost like a 'long paint stick' ( the bottom of this thin wood jig would have wax paper on it ). Then, press very this lightly to get a uniform flatness - not smooshed flat! - let it dry. Then remove the waxpaper/wood and that would be a built in gasket ?

Does this sound like it would work ?