Mercruiser question - fuel cooler leaking...

[abl1111]

I know this is a CSC site, but my experience dictates that this crew knows more than anyone about marine issues in general than most.

Just noticed that my fuel cooler is leaking where the aft water hose connects - BITCH!!! of a spot to work as it is right under my motor bed/stringer and beside the motor mount.

After removing the aft hose, I see the pinhole leak in the cooler's hose 'barb'...

Questions:

1 - I have already removed the black plastic box covering the water cooler/ fuel pump. I have removed two nuts that hold a retaining bracket and the unit in place. I have removed the aft ( leaking hose ) from the hose 'barb'. The hose clamps are all been in the wrong places making removal a f#$%^ bear ! How hard is it to continue from here and remove the rest of it ? And....

2- once removed, can this pinhole be welded and then epoxied over ? Or is it a must replace part ? Or...

3- Can I leave it all in place, sand and epoxy the pinhole while in place ? And, if so...

4- what kind of epoxy would I use here ? I use a lot of the WEST System epoxy, but I think that something else might be better suited... like Marine Tex...

What do you think ? Thank you.

[1bayouboy]

It would help to say what model, year and version of cool fuel module.....mine has a very different set up than what you're describing. I do understand the lack of access though...I just replaced my seawater pump. I'm not sure I would trust just epoxy, but maybe someone else has direct experience. I get nervous about things that let water in...

[abl1111]

2001 5.7 350HP, MAG MPI ( fuel injected ).

I replaced my seawater pump earlier this season. I thought that was going to be tough - it's in a bad spot, but do-able.

The fuel cooler - I think is probably in the worst spot that can be worked on while the motor is still in...

I think an epoxy will work. I too, do not like the short path, but if I can get this whole gizmo out, it comes out w/ the fuel pump, fuel pressure reg, etc, then, you have to start thinking about replacing these parts too ( even if they work fine, just so you don't have to go back in there again ).

[abl1111]

Well. No help here - but I guess I can help someone in the future. I finished this knuckle bearing job - a lot of blood lost from tight quarters and mercruiser #$@$%%$ sharp stuff everywhere ! My original fuel cooler must have been crushed while being dropped in boat - against motor mount, by mechanic during install after my resto of boat because cooler was smooshed where the water hose gets clamped down.

Anyway, it is a methodical job that can be done but it takes about 4 hours total if you're lucky and don't drop anything in the bilge ( a likely possibilty ).

A few helpful tips: disconnect fuel lines at water/fuel separator as oppoosed to the cooler/fuel pump. Disconnect all cooler/ fuel pump connections and slide entire unit forward along stringer until out.

I don't curse this job on anyone !

All went well and I'm ready for fishing again. Bloody knuckles and arms will heal soon enough !



R/R

[htillman]

No help now, but I have my turbine mechanics tie strings to their wrenches to their bodies when working on open turbines. We also keep drop list when and if they do drop items.

[abl1111]

I did tie a pc of engine part when I was installing it because if it dropped into the bilge it would have been a bear to get. I used 15lb fishing line and then when I attached it, I tore the line free...

I also used electrical tape to partially cover the face of a ratchet to hold a nut in place while trying to install it in a vertical / upside down position ( not to mention the paper towel I jammed in the ratchet first to keep the nut close to the face / or front of the ratchet so it would not recess !!!

My favorite 'tool' when I re-do a complex thing is my digital camera so I can detail the ripdown via pix and see what things looked like after I have many pcs laying around !