Gelcoat Versus Awlgrip versus Easypoxy - showdown.

[KenB]

Hi folks.

I now have 2 (two) seacraft projects on stands and blocks, and instead of sanding, faring, or replacing decks/transoms, I would rather spend my time posting about painting the hulls (i.e. the last step). I know there are several great threads covering the benefits of all three approaches, but I would like to get all the relevant information into one thread. Someone did this a while ago with "twins on a 23", where most of the relevant info needed for repowering a 23 was concentrated in one mega-thread.

To be specific (and please correct me if I am wrong) here are the 3 scenarios:
1) Gelcoat - by this I mean buying Gelcoat from jamestown distributors and DIY. remove bottom paint. repair dings, gouges, etc with poly/glass. Quikfair. roll on Gelcoat. Sand. Roll on again. Sand.
2) Awlgrip - by this I mean professionally sprayed paint. Pros sand blast bottom. DIY repair dings, gouges, etc with poly/glass. Quikfair. DIY Primer and sand. Pros shoot paint.
3) Easypoxy - by this I mean roll and tip epoxy paint. remove bottom paint. repair dings, gouges, etc with poly/glass. Quikfair. high build primer. Sand. Roll and tip. Sand?

There are 3 things I would like to compare: cost versus quality of finish versus time I spend doing stuff.

Cost (Total WAGs - wild ass guesses):
1) Gelcoat: seacraft23 - $500,seacraft23 - $500,
2) Awlgrip: seacraft23 - $6000,seacraft20 - $5000,
3) Easypoxy seacraft23 - $1500,seacraft20 - $1000,

Quality
1) Gelcoat: new boat.
2) Awlgrip: better than a new boat.
3) Easypoxy seacraft23 - new boat... from 25 feet.

Time
1) Gelcoat: 2 paint/sand cycles
2) Awlgrip: 1 paint/sand cycles
3) Easypoxy: 3 paint/sand cycles


OTHER QUESTIONS:
- below waterline versus above waterline (i.e. hull versus decks, console, etc.) I am leaning towards gelcoat on hull and easypoxy above decks on the 20, since that hull is in serious need of TLC.
- below decks? I have heard some folks slapping on a coat epoxy primer. Overkill?
- how much does the current state of the boat matter? My 23 had solid gelcoat... I may just do a few repairs and try to color match the gelcoat. The 20 is a mess. Both structural stuff

IF THERE IS A THREAD THAT ANSWERS THIS, PLEASE LINK AND POINT ME TOWARDS IT!!!

[ct9amr]

You can see some before and after of my old Shamrock here. It was a 1992 with original gelcoat but it was too far gone to bring back.
This was all professionally done bottom job and top.
Awlgrip on sides and bottom paint is vivid white.

[mitchteller]

Signature finish. I hear a lot about this stuff lately and just bought a sample batch to try over faded 6 year old Easypoxy. It's made by the same guys (Fabula) who make Honey Teak (which I've got on my brightwork). The company owner, Tom, claims ten years life span, goes on over any prior paint, apply in any weather (I'm in the NE), use as bottom paint. Sounds too good to be true. Anyone have any prior experience with it?. Thanks

[DonV]

Go to the search function and use "signature paint", newer than let's say 10 weeks. All the info you need. I've used it on my transom and console rebuild and I like it.

[mitchteller]

Thanks...However, I can't seem to find it. Help?

[Bushwacker]

I used Signature to repaint the bottom of my boat with excellent results. Here's the post I made on that job last spring. I left a sample of it in salt water for over a month with zero problems. Tom Fabula said he painted his swimming pool with it over 10 years ago and it still looks great! No other urethane paint will hold up under water like that!

Boat was subsequently left in water for a couple of weeks. Had a little bit of growth on transom and bracket flotation tub where moving water didn't knock it off, but that paint is so slick that it wiped right off with a wet rag!

Here's a link to my photobucket album in case the links don't work in the old post.

[Bushwacker]

You might want to consider one other option . . . Signature Finish paint. Durability similar to Awlgrip but it's easily repairable which awlgrip is not, and can be applied via roll & tip or wet roller/dry roller. Will hold up under water, which no other urethane paint will do. Can be any color you want - just tell them brand and color name/code. Appearance can be equal to awlgrip if you're willing to do a little buffing. Capt. Chuck is resident wizard on this paint. Contact Tom for cost. Cost would probably be more than Easypoxy but less than awlgrip. Application difficulty similar to easypoxy.

Here's a link to my bottom painting project.

[SBD]

FWIW- I have been doing lots of gelcoating on my project and I tried rolling initially and the results were not good. I wouldn't recommend it.

I switched to spraying and the results have been great, but making the final product go from good to great is labor intensive. In hindsight, paint would have been much easier, which is probably why it is the way most people go!

[bigeasy1]

I sent you a pm on the gelcoat.

I wouldn't use gel coat,It's way to labor intensive to get a perfect finish.
I'd definitely go with paint,and I wouldn't go with the EasyPoxy.The EasyPoxy is a single part urethane,and although it's a real nice durable paint with a very nice finish,It can't come close to the two part urethanes like Awlgrip,Signature,Perfection, etc in the durability,gloss or longevity factors.

The perfection(Interlux) works great with the roll and tip method and many guys say the same about the Sterling.I used a two part urethane made by Epifanes on my 23 and although I sprayed it,it also works good with roll and tip application.
These two part finishes are incredibly durable and highly fade resistant.They are the way to go.

Check out www.Mertons.com look at his gel coat and compare it to Jamestown.He also ships fast and everywhere,and carries lots of paints.He has just taken on the Interlux Perfection line and his prices and service are outstanding.

[NoBones]

After 40 years of trying to make Gel Coat look good on
a boat, I gave up!!!!!!
Take it from some one that has been there an done that!!
Use AwlGrip!!! Yeah, it is a pain in the azz to use,
and a bit*# to spray, but the end result is what you
are looking for...
Just my 2¢'s worth.
See ya, Ken