Deck Drain Frustrations!

TunaMeltdown · #1 03-14-2011, 08:50 AM

Well After reading alot of archived material here going as far back as the sites begining I thought I knew all I needed to know about replacing the rear deck drains and the forward fish box thruhull in my 23' inboard. I was wrong. I ordered 170 dollars worth of moeller drain tubes, flanging tool, groco thru hull, and plenty of 5200 and started the demo process. Everything came out pretty well but thats about as far as I got. I bought 1" drain tubes because that is the original size that the boat came with (I think?) and someone in the boats 34 years of age hogged the holes to 1.25" . So my 1" drains will not work. Ok no problem I continue to the fish box drain, remove the plastic thru hull, dry fit the new brass groco, cut it to length and slather it in 5200 and put it in place. I tightened it from inside and jumped out to see how it looked on the outside and it was not seeted flush against the hull. Now I'm started to get really mad. The drain is located close to one of the chines and the mushroom on the thru hull is just to big. It seems to fit fine when you hold it in place but as you tighten the nut it will not seat properly? I'm kind of at my whits end here. I thought these would be simple replace ments and it seems I may have bit off more than I can chew. Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Dan Stewart.

Squido · #2 03-14-2011, 09:45 AM

Hey Dan I did this project last year. PIA!!!! for sure. I got stainless deck drains and remolded things with azek. The drains I got from marine connection liquidators in Fort Pierce Fla. They had everything for the job under 1 roof. If you want shoot me a pm with email and I will shoot some photos of what I did.

TunaMeltdown · #3 03-14-2011, 10:13 AM

Thanks, I just spoke with Jamestown Distributers. Thats where I got all the stuff and they have 1.25" diameter x 3 7/8" long Moeller tubes that I am going to try.

Old'sCool · #4 03-14-2011, 07:51 PM

Not sure if this helps but.....I replaced brass drain tubes on my Whaler years ago. Brass tubing from McMaster Carr. The ends to be flanged have to be annealed first. They form easy after this. Heat cherry red with torch and immediately quench in water. This keeps them from splitting. Form one end in shop. Insert and cut XXX (3/16"-1/4") longer then anneal. Insert in boat and form flange. The tool works ok, 2 guys w/hammer and tow ball work better.

TunaMeltdown · #5 03-15-2011, 03:12 PM

After giving it much thought and wanting the most permenant fix in the long run I have decided to completely fill in the 1.25" existing drain area with West systems. I am going to sand down the fiberglass a little bit on both the hull and deck and glass in a small patch thus bonding the epoxy plug to the glass on the deck and the hull. When dry I will drill new 1" holes and procede to install the moeller drain tubes I had bought.

Seacraft84 · #6 03-15-2011, 03:17 PM

That sounds about like the easiest fix to me. I did the same on a 23 I redid and ended up just letting it drain in the bilge though.

McGillicuddy · #7 03-15-2011, 04:01 PM

You've probably already considered this stuff but just a heads up - the blocks of wood that support and surround the tubes will probably be pretty porous if not rotting as that's where any water coming in seeped first. When you do your fill, much of the epoxy may seep into and through the blocks and accumulate along the stringer. It might help to wrap that block first with tape or a layer of thickened epoxy. Stick a little rolled up fiberglass cloth in the holes before filling to keep the epoxy from getting too hot too fast. And also so consider getting a good angle measurement so you have that when re-drilling or the flare will not seat well in the bottom side...

Been there, done that

pelican · #8 03-19-2011, 11:06 AM

Quote:

After giving it much thought and wanting the most permenant fix in the long run I have decided to completely fill in the 1.25" existing drain area with West systems. I am going to sand down the fiberglass a little bit on both the hull and deck and glass in a small patch thus bonding the epoxy plug to the glass on the deck and the hull. When dry I will drill new 1" holes and procede to install the moeller drain tubes I had bought.

this is what i would do...

grind the whole area out-you need to "dish" the area around the thru hull-inside and outside,use a dremel with a drum sander bit to clean the inside of the hole...after the area is clean-run tape over the outside-fill the hole with the mix,let it kick...after it's fully kicked-clean it-gotta remove the amine blush from west system...grind it down,glass the areas you ground out-slightly higher than the surrounding surface-let it all kick...after it kicks,clean it and grind it down-punch the hole right thru the epoxy-you will be able to see the hole you filled...at this point,the hole is thru the epoxy-epoxy is waterproof,unlike polyester based resins-no need for a drain tube-clean the area up,if needed,and besure the "rubber plug" will fit in the hole...done...

the repair,done in this manner,is actually stronger than the original build-epoxy is a stronger,waterproof resin.the areas are glassed with a matting,not a filler,the "hole",is integral with the hull...a true repair...

these are the drain tubes in the bow area,right ?

i do drains thru a cored surface,like a transom a little different than this,but basically the same...

using plywood for a back up block-like for an engine seacock-isn't a bad idead,but...i like starboard-i make the hole in the hull and the starboard-i like seeing the starboard round-i even run it on the router...after the thru hull is in,i seal the inner area of the hull in 3m 5200,slide the back up block in place,followed by the nut...tighten it all down...done...the back up block will last forever,the 5200 will seal it all...

there's more than one way to "skin a cat",that's just how i do it...

a few tips...

filling holes-you don't want the epoxy mix too thick,use some tape around the hole on the inside-to hold the mix in place-west system-before it kicks,it gets very runny-due to heat...use a popsicle stick to move the mix around in the hole-air will get trapped in the hole-if left that way,the "plug" will have a void in it-doing this will get the air out...be sure the "plug",the plug being the epoxy filling the hole is ground even to match the surrounding area,before glassing it,if not,you're gonna have a void...try to keep the area round,cut the glass in circles -to match the area you dished out...remember,nothing sticks to antifouling paint-be sure there's no contamination from the antifouling paint...