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#1
11-27-2011, 06:59 PM
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89 18sf Project/rebuild/restore started (2-8-12 tank installation help needed)
I've finally started tearing into the 1989 Seacraft 18sf I bought back in 6/11. The boat was "turnkey" and I took it out a few times, but at some point I knew it would need electrical work and a new deck. The hope is for a completed project by 5/12. The hull itself is in great shape, just oxidized so I will either wetsand or use a serious buffing compound, The transom is solid. The never ending list I have in my head so far goes as follows:
New deck - Same height/mg ply. Recore removable gunnels/tank hatch/livewell hatch with composite (still TDB) Rework console/repair spider cracks. Complete rewire/new electronics/new hardware. New paint inside. Inspect fuel tank for leaks/excessive corrosion, replace if needed. New leaning post. New leaf springs on trailer Ideally, I would like to repower with a late model 150hp 2stroke carb. At time of purchase:   11/19 removing the console/hardware    11/26 removing gunnel cap    By the end of the day today I had the caps ready to be recored. I THINK I want to use some sort of composite here. Mainly because I've never worked with it before, and I think it would be a good area because of the curve/bend the caps make from bow to stern. My main concerns are: I am sure they cored these caps while they were still in the mold. They currently still hold their shape to some degree as they are. My plan is to support their natural shape and core them, but I am hoping if they are off at all they can still be bent/twisted to fit the boat as needed. When I removed the caps today, they were still very flexible, but part of me thinks this is from the rotted core that was initially in there. Either way, I'm pretty sure itll all work out, but it was just something I noticed. Suggestions on coring material?? Im going to be buying it tomorrow along with fairing material for the spider cracks in the console/gunnel caps. I hope by the end of this week I can have the console ready for primer and the gunnel caps recored and topside ready for primer. Ive started with the gunnel caps/console first so I can get a feel for priming/spraying paint before I tackle the entire inside. Thinking snow white interior and light blue/gray nonskid. As always any advice/criticism/anything is appreciated. Last edited by alexh; 02-08-2012 at 12:38 PM. 
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#2
11-28-2011, 08:35 AM
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As to recoring the gunnel cap be careful. Make sure it is straight before you recore it other wise you will not have any fun putting it back on the boat.
The coring I would consider all the options the composite material around your rod holders cleats etc. won't work so well you won't have any sopport you want the wood there or aluminum. The type of coring I used on mine is core-cell and pensky board both are very good! just very costly but well worth it
__________________
1976 Seacraft CC(Pilot House) Inboard Yanmar 315 1979 Septer I/O no power Sold 
Last edited by heynow2203; 11-28-2011 at 08:37 AM.
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#3
11-28-2011, 12:06 PM
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#4
11-28-2011, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Still haven't decided on core material, but I'm headed down to the supplier this Friday, so ill have to decide between coosa, corecell, or nidacode, OR mg ply. I plan on bedding the core in thickened epoxy and a layer of 1708 over top that and calling it done. The boat sat under a tree for 90% of summer which is why the boat is covered in black crap now.
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#5
11-30-2011, 10:08 PM
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Progress as of 11/30
1/2" mg ply came in today so I made up the coring for the caps. Composite would have been nice, but I really cannot justify the cost. Made a template out of 1/4" scrap, transferred the template to the mg ply and cut the pieces out on the bandsaw. Ran a 1/2" round on the bottom sides to match up with the inside radius and then cut the coring into 5"-6" sections.
Cleaned up underside:  Corner that will need some work once the coring is in. A final stripped screw led to me just ripping the cap off:  Coring fit and cut into place:  Tonight I picked up some 24/50 grit 7" discs to make short work of the nonskid. It was a pain with a 5" DA so this should help. Friday I am picking up 5gal resin, 25yd of 1708, fillers/putty/everything else I need for the time being. Should be a productive weekend if its windy or raining and I cant fish. -alex
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#6
12-01-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
That's what I told myself when I was core shopping for the transom in my Mako. I originally wanted to go with a sheet of 1-1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26, but couldn't bring myself to fork over the $400+ for it. Ended up spending about $150 for two sheets of 3/4" marine ply...and then didnt' get a good bond between them. Bought two more sheets and did it over... So, I ended up saving around $50. :-( Looks like a great project. The 18 was no. 1 on my list, but I could never find one.
__________________
Brian 1981 Mako 17
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#7
12-01-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
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#9
12-06-2011, 06:37 PM
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I think most of my old core removal is done. Scoring with a skillsaw and removing the pieces with a pry bar on edge seemed to do it. I might pull the livewell/rear hatch up and redo it. I'll run a drill bit into the bottom side and see how the shavings are.
Most of the dust you're seeing is wood dust. We're a commercial millwork/casework company during the day and so nights/weekends I get to work the boat.
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#10
12-17-2011, 01:14 PM
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Coring/Fairing continues
Basically spent the last week after work filling fairing sanding the gunnel caps. The front hatch and livewell deck hatch felt strong but core samples showed the wood to be wet, so I went ahead and recored them as well. Hopefully when I have a week off for Christmas I'll get the deck up along with the fuel tank. Turns out it is an original tank. 47 gallons. I had assumed all tanks sat in their own fiberglass coffin box.
hotcoat coring parts. I only hotcoat the bottom/sides that will be bonded first. Once all the coring is in place I hit the top side all at once so I dont have to handle a ton of pieces again.  coring clamped in with the torpedo heater keeping it warm.  1708 cut to size:  1.5oz mat wetted out over old rod holder locations   filled sanded faired. again and again and again.  
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