1974 20' sceptre transom replacement and i/o to outboard bracket conversion

flyingfrizzle · #1 07-15-2013, 07:56 AM

Finally got base ball season behind me, with 2 kids playing and one making all-stars it has been hectic trying to make all the practices, games and the boats have became a standby. Tried to get back on pace and started getting the transom ready for replacement. Removed the old wood and cleaned up the rear of the boat to prep it for the new wood. Cut back the stringers a bit and removed the old battery mount block. Cut out the ply and bonded two 3/4 pieces together with two layers of thick matted roven between them. Fitted the section in and tapered the edges back for a good fit and got everything ready to install.

erebus · #2 07-15-2013, 05:43 PM

Those giant C-channel clamps are awesome!

gofastsandman · #3 07-20-2013, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erebus

Those giant C-channel clamps are awesome!

Yes they are.

flyingfrizzle · #4 07-21-2013, 12:13 AM

NoBones · #5 07-21-2013, 12:22 AM

They are called "Deep Throat" clamps....

flyingfrizzle · #6 07-21-2013, 05:31 PM

Got the InsIde glased today 3 layers overall and 3 layers of tabbing.

flyingfrizzle · #7 07-20-2013, 06:23 PM

I had to modify my clamps to fit the smaller back of the 20, but I finally got the transom bonded in with epoxy and clamped down setting up. I normally use polyester but believe epoxy has its place and a transom replacement is one of them. I feel like I will give me a better bond to the old glass. I hate the slow dry time but once it is done I will get a few layers on the inside and tab it in then try to get the cap back on.

RUSTYNTABATHA · #8 07-22-2013, 06:18 AM

very cool... Watching closely !!! I have to do this to my master angler and the clamps are fantasic !!!! i will be building a set of these !!!! I have a question though. Hind site being 20 / 20 and someone looking on from the outside... Would adding 2x4 on the outside and inside spread the clamping effect ? I think my transom is flat on my Master Angler and this would spread the clamping effect. Or do the clamps provide for good adhesion ? Also would it matter that i will be using composite ?

flyingfrizzle · #9 07-22-2013, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUSTYNTABATHA

very cool... Watching closely !!! I have to do this to my master angler and the clamps are fantasic !!!! i will be building a set of these !!!! I have a question though. Hind site being 20 / 20 and someone looking on from the outside... Would adding 2x4 on the outside and inside spread the clamping effect ? I think my transom is flat on my Master Angler and this would spread the clamping effect. Or do the clamps provide for good adhesion ? Also would it matter that i will be using composite ?

Yea, I had a pair of 2x6's that I was going to put behind the clamps to spread the load out a bit more but it is difficult to do this with out some extra hands or help. I wasn't able to get them behind all four clamps at the same time while holding them up off the top lip of the skin. If I would of had some one there to help me I probably would of added them to the back side of the skin but I don't think it really needed it anyway. The core was two 3/4" plys and had almost a 1/4" of woven glass between them and I also soaked the wood well with thinned resin plus added a layer of thick mat around the core. It was so stiff prier to installing I don't think the inside needed boards for more support at all. On the outside it might of helped some but the skin was very thick as well and looking down it I did not see where the 4" square blocks I used bowed it in any. I took a straight edge down the back side once it sat up and it looked even all the way down the back. I try not to put too much pressure on the core due to it will squeeze all the epoxy out of the joint. But the more even you can add pressure to it the better off you are that is for sure.

flyingfrizzle · #10 07-22-2013, 07:30 AM

I will add two layers of of 1808 over the 3 layers of mat to add a good bit more of strength. After getting this far and hot coating the matted layers in the 95 degree heat in direct sunlight. I had to work faster than I like to do due to the cure time. I mix in smaller batches and stuck with the 1% hardener (normally use more to speed up cure time) and decided to let it cure out after the first few layers. I will ruff it up with some 36 grit sand paper, clean it well then add the 1808 and some more tabbing. This time I will do it a bit earlier and beat the heat.