School me on I/Os

[CHANCE1234]

Gonna look at a 23 with an I/O. I don't know if it's raw water cooled or fresh water cooled. What else should I look for on engine or out drive that could signal problems? What questions should I ask about the package? Appointment is at 2 on Wednesday. Thanks guys

[bobr338]

If it was me I would be much more interested in one that is kept on a trailer. If it kepts on a trailer than the fresh water/raw water debate really shouldn't matter, assuming regular maintenance was done. Same with motor, less issues, oil pan rusting out etc. if kept on trailer. All the smaller stuff (bellows, impeller, belts etc.) are a non-issue, assuming you will just go through all that stuff in the winter.

Also, I had a 23 cc with an outboard and in my opinion my 23 i/o rides better. typically they are really easy to work on, especially compared to a straight inboard.

[erebus]

like bobr mentioned check the oil pan, or at least ask about it.
They get really sweaty sitting way down there in the bilge.
Had to replace an oil pan on an I/O silverhawk (basically a 24 Seacraft) and a 23 I/O this year so far (also an aged Tiara but we wont talk about that :-P).
They rust out right around the drain plug.

Take some notes and some pics and come back and ask away.
There are so many variables its hard to tell you what to look for without knowing what you're looking at. Hopefully not a volvo...

I have access to a 23 CC with an I/O (Fuel injected Mercruiser Horizon 350, with a bravo) on Pleasant bay and I think it handles great. Only downside to the IO is you cant really drive it right up on the beach, if that's your thing.
Cant trim it all the way up and skim along on the hull in 10 inches of water like you can with an outboard.
Maybe that doesn't matter, but it is something to consider.

[CHANCE1234]

Thanks. This one has been sitting inside for two years so who knows what it looks like in the engine compartment. I'll bring a good flashlight and crawl around as much as I can. I'll report back tomorrow.

[bobr338]

Wrath? What's the story behind those boats in storage? Apparently there are 5 or so.

[thehermit]

Originally Posted by bobr338

Wrath? What's the story behind those boats in storage? Apparently there are 5 or so.

Yea...find out would ya

If its WRATH it was trailed when it was fishing out of Chatham.

[CHANCE1234]

Was Wrath your old boat Hermit? It is the Wrath i'll be looking at today. This same guy also has my old Inboard for sale.

[thehermit]

Originally Posted by CHANCE1234

Was Wrath your old boat Hermit?

Nope. It was Chip Morgan's
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ighlight=wrath

[Billybob]

Find out when the manifolds/risers were last replaced.

[abl1111]

The i/o performs awesome ! Better than any other option IMO. The responsiveness is excellent.

However, the maintenance, even if cared for very well is a factor as compared to an OB and many of the bolt-on marinization parts die after time. I installed mine new in 2003. I keep my 300 HP, 5.7L 350 Mercruiser ( freshwater cooled - except the risers ) in the brine for 6 months. I am VERY meticulous and care for the engine and drive to reduce premature part failure ( so, a lot of preventive maintenance ). Parts are stupid expensive..

Some of the things I would check carefully as they cost $$$:

NOTE: My gimbal ring wore so when removing the motor to repair, I had anything marginal replaced including the oil pan, starter and coupler which was fine, but was an aluminum version - the metal version is superior so to avoid issues, I replaced mine with that ( 800 hours )

- Oil pan - I replaced mine at 800 hours ( looked OK but rust near drain, mechanic said do it... )
- Gimbal ring - engine come out - and usually replace the whole transom mount - very $$$$$ part Check to see if the drive moves side to side when the steering wheel is held. If it does - thats a concern !
- Risers - R/R at 400 hours - If you have raw water cooled - think risers and manifold replacement unless recently done
- Cooler ( fresh water meets salt ) - pricey part R/R @ 300 hours - only if freshwater cooled
- Fuel Injection Pump / Cooler - expensive and bitchy spot R/R @ 300 hours
- Bellows ( drive and exhaust )- R/R @ 450 hours - labor intensive, $ if not done already
- various sensors.
- raw water pump - not just the impeller, but the housing wears...

Each season, it is important to properly prep and paint the transom mount / gimbal etc to maximize its life. Check for corrosion - it means it wasn't taken care of properly, or 'zincs' weren't changed often enough.

The Drive ( Bravo 3 ) - is bullet proof so far. Change seals and oil each season - I sand and prep mine each year with Trilux and it looks mint.

Hope this helps. I hope the boat was well taken care of ...

I'd prefer an OB for simplicity and ease, but my boat was a twin IO and when I restored her, I opted for a single V8. I am very happy with her, but again, a properly bracketed 300 OB would be nice too !