|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
My 1978 Master Angler Refresh
I picked up this 1978 20' MA from fellow member Red20 a couple of weeks ago. Going to make her pretty once again.
Plans are (in no particular order): 1) install some finish panels to hide the naked fiberglass that the factory covered with carpet 2) Paint deck, cap and hull -thinking seafoam or Aquamist for the hull and non-skid, white for cap and trim 3) Replace Leaning Post with something a little more modern looking 4) Add T-Top 5) Service and paint the engine but longer term plans will be for a repower 6) add some goodies here and there 7) fish the daylights out of it |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
What's your hull number? Mine is 39.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
The actual hull number is unknown. It has a Florida assigned HIN.
The story is that when the company was sold in 1979/80, there were two leftover MA's not included in the deal. Mr. Potter kept one and gave the other, unfinished hull, to a friend that was a guide down in the Keys. The guide finished it up the way he wanted and used it for a number of years. At least that is the story Red20 told me when I looked at it. One of these days I will try and do a title search to see who the owner was that registered it as a 1984 homebuilt vessel. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Found a leaning post that might work. It has a nifty little divided storage area under the seat.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I’m not sure why no one else has chimed in with regards to your “punch list”, but I bought my 1979 MA in 1996 with a rigged engine. She blew, rebuilt twice and by 1999, pre-CSC, I had to bite the bullet for a new outboard. Fortunately my mechanic found my transom required a rebuild. Unfortunately, I had never heard of it referred to as a SinkCraft, and I had the transom done from the inside beautifully but NOT Raised to 25 inches!?!
Maybe Red20 knows the transom to be solid regardless of the metal (patch) plate on yours now. That would be my first concern. And if transom is wet mulch, take it from me and raise at least 25”. As you said, hopefully it can be postponed until repower. Best of Luck. Michael. Oh, and has it’s been said here many times, “whatever you anticipate cost, triple time, materials, labor and beer”. So true, making your punch list become a Priority List. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
You might consider a few other things.
Step 1. Make sure boat is structurally sound. - I agree with Michael the transom looks suspect. Step 2. Drain/Inspect/clean fuel tank, replace fuel fill and vent hoses. Step 3. Go through motor (clean carbs, replace fuel pumps, check shift shaft, replace tstats, poppet, gear oil, waterpump, seals). Step 4. Inspect and service steering and binnacle control and cables. Step 5. Rip out and replace all wiring, switches, bilge pumps. Check or replace the through hull fittings. Scuppers and front fish box. Back burner raising the transom and all the cosmetic stuff / boat jewelry until you are ready to repower with a 25" motor. Get comfortable with the boat then jump to your step 7. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Not my first rodeo when it comes to boat projects but my first Seacraft. I have done several boats in the past few years and dozens of classic car restorations, I know all about what a can of warms I am about to open up. Thanks again, G |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Somebody here or THT had an engine cover for sale recently
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
cover
I saw this one the other day. I think its down to $200
https://www.thehulltruth.com/parts-f...reduced-4.html *this is not my item |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for sharing that listing but I want to keep the design as built by the original builder. I think it adds to the boat's uniqueness. I am just going to raise it up to allow for the motor to be trimmed properly.
|
|
|