What helm steering systems are you running? (20' Seafari)

[JUST JOHN]

Hi all,

So my steering started slipping last weekend. It skips in both directions in a repeatable spot, which I'm assuming has sheered a tooth within the mechanical rotary unit. Anyway, I dug in to see what exactly I have and it's an "old-style threaded" Teleflex (now SeaStar) SH5023 (now labelled as SH5023P).

I spoke to the SeaStar technical guru to confirm part numbers, recommendations etc, and he says that this unit was not recommended for my 20' with the "monster" Johnson 150 that's mounted. He recommended the 4.2 No Feedback model (SS147_ _ ...I need to confirm my cable length still, specified in the last two digits).

The replacement kit for what was mounted on my boat since 2004 (?), with new cable, is a SS137_ _... He was surprised I got that long out of it, and guessed that steering would be quite hard, turn when you let go of the wheel, and suffer from prop torque-steer... all of which I'd say are true

I'm planning on following his recommendation and "upgrade", but wanted to compare notes with CSC first to see what people with my boat, and similar motor, are using.

What is the correct cable length for a 20' Seafari? Apparently it is stamped on the helm-end cable jacket on my setup, which I'll look for tonight... and/or measure...

Thanks!!

[JUST JOHN]

I don't see a length marking on my cable anywhere, but I measured a bunch of times and come up with 14'. Sound correct?

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by JUST JOHN

I don't see a length marking on my cable anywhere, but I measured a bunch of times and come up with 14'. Sound correct?

See the following, my installed cable is 15', during one of my replacements I may have added a foot because it was tight getting around the starboard corner. You need to know how they are defining how to measure the length'

I converted to the Teleflex non-feedback steering a number of years ago on my '76 20’ Seafari with a Merc 150 HP V-6. A few years later switched to a ETEC 150HO. I liked the NFB because I didn.t have to fight the steering torque and the boat would still go straight if I temporarily let go of the wheel. I did have a helm failure a last year in a rather gentle turn just a little faster than plane speed; glad it didn’t happen to my wife when I was at footing or slalom speeds! At that time I briefly considered going hydraulic, but with guests coming, wanted to get back in operation quickly with P/Ns that I knew would work. The hydraulic systems I have driven seem too much like power steering. Here is what my Marine Parts Source invoice shows for Seastar:

TF-SSC6215 (15 foot), Safe-T OC Steering Cable $86
TF-SH4910P Helm Only NFB4 $109

Removal and installation of the cable went a little smoother last time. I think what I did for removal was extract the entire cable aft through the hole just in front of the transom so I wasn’t trying to pull the aft, metallic end around the corner and through the hole in the strbd panel under the gunnel. Then I reversed the process for installation. About 35 years ago I replaced the original gunnel bolsters with 3/8” teak I was able to leave the teak in place for the steering cable removal/install.

Best wishes

[JUST JOHN]

Thank you for your detailed feedback Capt Terry!

You need to know how they are defining how to measure the length'

Yes, this is something I though of while measuring. Good point, I'll call him back before ordering.
EDIT: found the below pic.

I liked the NFB because I didn.t have to fight the steering torque and the boat would still go straight if I temporarily let go of the wheel.'

This is something I'm really looking forward to. The boat has been this way for so long that it was just "the norm" to muscle the wheel. I'm exciting to think it will be a smoother operation, more of a pleasure to drive, and handle better as a result.

I could see, depending on your routing how that startboard corner could easily add an extra foot to keep it out of the way. Mine has a gentle curve there, over my oil tank :/ ...

I believe I'll remove/install just as you describe. The SeaStar rep said to tie a line to the end of the old cable before removing so you could then tie it to the new cable to pull through for assembly. I think this will just complicate things, as installation seems pretty open and easy. On a related note, there is quite a bit of slack in the existing cable along the gunnel.

Thanks again!

[Capt Terry]

My original cable had the rack helm. My next helm and the NFB helm are rotary. Mine runs through the engine tilt tube where it is secured to the tube with a nut. So follow the appropriate measurement instructions.
In a completely confined area using a rope is good. Instead of a rope, I probably used one of my common methods, attaching about a 4’ long, white jacketed 14 gauge 3 wire piece to the steering cable to help snake it through the hole under the gunnel. You can put some prebend in it, push on it, whereas you can’t push on a rope!

[JUST JOHN]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

My original cable had the rack helm. My next helm and the NFB helm are rotary.

Did the extra foot you mentioned adding to the cable length coincided with the move from rack to rotary?

[JUST JOHN]

After seeing the "...add 18", and round up..." thing ... the cable does obviously account for the length running through the tube at the end(s). I called the tech again and he confirmed that whatever the jacketed length is, you should +18", and it should end on a round-foot number, so I likely also have a 15' (or 16'!?). He said that the part number could be "within a few feet from the end"...and "we've been doing it since the 70's". -I didn't see a p/n using a mirror for the back, but will look again, since I didn't expect it to be too far from the helm unit... and/or I'll take the cable completely out to measure it properly. I don't want an extra foot of slack and friction added in... not to mention paying extra for every foot added. I measured the jacket-only as ~14' in the boat (could be 13'6"?) -I likely erred on the side of caution)...despite techs disapproval; he's a take no bull kinda guy lol. Using the A+B+C+6" would be more like 16' I think, as I did also measure that as a sanity check.
Too bad I put the boat back together last night; NY weather forecast looks good to roll the dice and get one last beach day in!
Good tip about using Romex for install.

[JUST JOHN]

Hey Zachary, thank you for the feedback! Miraculously, this evening I was able to pass the nut of the new cable through the existing hole with some not-so-gentle persuasion. I'm very surprised I didn't have to loosen the engine, or elongate the hole with that pictured misalignment. Sore arms, but tickled pink!!! Second night at it, but job is 95% done now. Engine side is all cleaned, greased and reassembled. New helm and wheel is (re)installed, just need to finish routing cable and feed/align wheel. Stoked it somehow worked out "easily".

[erebus]

[Beaver]

Is it just me or is boat work almost never easy?

Glad you got it out.