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  #1  
Old 06-26-2019, 11:20 AM
CommercialCapt CommercialCapt is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 4
Default 1969 20SF Rebuild

So after a long, long hunt I finally pulled the trigger and purchased a Seacraft. Found it on eBay with some terrible photos, with a low price until the end I expected a bidding war at the end but walked away with it for just over 1k USD with a trailer that is good for "any" extended tow. So a quick trip from Nova Scotia Canada to Rhode Island and back, a couple of wheels and bearings later it's in our shop yard.




It's a 1969 20SF, the hull is in good shape, the console has been forward. Decks have been glassed over once already, unsure what is underneath them, I can see some bare plywood.





Will start to dismantle it and start the refit this week. Plan on it running into a winter project as I have some pretty big dreams for after seeing all the phenomenal projects being completed on here!

Plans:
Pull deck and re-core the stringers and deck.
Re-core and close the transom.
Close the transom and bracket it.



Few questions, What will be the best way to remove the deck? Can I remove the cap and deck as one or is it bedded down to well? Should I just remove the deck then the cap?

More or less looking for what would be the best order of operations for a full refit!

Thanks in advanced,
Will
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2019, 10:55 AM
Old'sCool Old'sCool is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,122
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Congrats! No telling how the OP tied stuff together so you'll have to figure that out. Stringers should be foam filled and no "re-coring" necessary except remove old foam/pour new if necessary.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2019, 03:17 PM
dirtwheelsfl dirtwheelsfl is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: St. Lucie county FL
Posts: 437
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It will probably be a bitch to remove the whole cap/liner/deck in one piece, and for a full refit its nice to cut that liner out and make it into a "3 piece" and gain all that foot space.

Cut back the deck/cap/stringers far enough to do transom first, then tie the stringers back into it. Raise stringers if desired (definitely would) then new deck. Leave as much of the cap/liner on as you can during all this to keep the hull in shape. The cap will be last to do...
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  #4  
Old 08-02-2019, 12:01 PM
CommercialCapt CommercialCapt is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 4
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I've been working offshore, as I'm in the oil and gas industry, for the past month and its given me alot of time to think my plans over and research.

I am still on the fence about closing the transom and installing a full bracket. My other two options are to raise to 25" of course or essentially do a closed transom but only close it where the engine well is now and still put some what of a bracket with a much smaller setback.

I want to put a yammi 4stroke 150 or even a 200 as the weight difference is negligible or an e-tec g2. Yammi prefered as that is what we have already on a few whalers and service in the area is phenomenal.

I live in Nova Scotia, Canada, so I don't do any runs offshore like most of you do, but the weather can get very nasty very quick here when running between bays and islands. This boat will be more of an island/beach runner with light fishing capabilities. We have proper 42 footers for that! Haha

Any thoughts on my ideas and thoughts
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  #5  
Old 08-02-2019, 12:25 PM
crsavage1 crsavage1 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 44
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I will be watching for sure. I too have a 69 although there is debate whether it was a bow rider or an early SF but regardless it was CC when I got it last year. I have been heading down the same road as you and just now getting to re-glassing the stringers after having cut the deck out of mine due to a leaking gas tank.

My deck was made of some odd sandwiched PET foam or something that I cut out originally with a oscillating saw where I left a 2" deck lip around the perimeter to be able to use it to go back with new decking and raising it an inch. Due to trouble I found once working on it, I ended up cutting that out as well and grinding everything down flush to just start over.

Mine came with a bracket on it and there are great articles here about the center of gravity calculations with a bracket that helped to understand how those changes might impact the way the boat heels etc.

My transom was also closed in, has a bait well in it but honestly I have been debating just cutting it out as well because the way it was enclosed, the thru hulls and sea cocks were virtually impossible to get access to so if there were an issue I would have been screwed.

My stringers had some wood in them around the fuel cell area probably to act as forms and an anchor point so you might find some in yours as well. I am planning on using a polypropylene honeycomb for the decking and working on how I want to enclose the transom again on the back. My hull does not have a liner in it at all, and my cap was somehow built into so due to it being a complete nightmare, I have decided to leave it be, support it from below with Coosa every two feet or so and then fair and smooth it all back out.

It's fun, but can be frustrating and slower than planned. I like it at least but it is nowhere near economical. I have a lot of pictures of progress I made and how I went to getting where I am now so happy to share those if you are interested.

Most of all, good luck! Dirtwheelswfl has been great for input and his re-build of Squid Lips is something to read through if you haven't yet.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2019, 10:07 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
Posts: 4,586
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We have and he has great skill.
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