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  #11  
Old 01-23-2005, 05:13 PM
ScottM ScottM is offline
Dieter Sprockets
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Marshfield, MA
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Default Re: Fuel tank

jedgar,
FYI - If thedink's post didn't answer your question, Jack left for vacation yesterday (perfect timing considering the blizzard [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]), so you won't hear back from him until next weekend.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2005, 12:12 AM
bjfg144 bjfg144 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Delray Beach,Florida
Posts: 35
Default Re: Fuel tank

I had no problem taking out my fuel tank on my 20 CC. I took it to T-N-T Custom Marine Fabrications in Ft Pierce and made a new aluminum one for $550, by copying the old aluminum tank.
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2005, 09:27 AM
ocuyler ocuyler is offline
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: 44.41 -75.79
Posts: 1,490
Default Re: Fuel tank

jedgar,

This project is easiest if "attacked". Remove the hatch, disconnect and/or remove the hoses, use a 12" sawlsall blade to cut the foam away from the tank. You may have to trim the hatch lip as described above. If you are replacing the tank, you can remove the sending gauge and use that hole to put a small bar inside to attach a strap to, to pull that end up and out first. Once you get it started, a helper may come in handy.

Additional comments: You may consider installing 2 tanks vs. one. Be sure to evaluate the ply under the tank. As long as you’re in there, replace it, if needed. Pascoe's tank installation method is generally accepted here. It allows the tank to breath on the bottom. Be sure the fuel tank cavity drains, too.

Finally, take a good look at the stringers while you're in there. There should (must) be a weep hole in the aft most end at the bottom to drain and water that has worked its way into the foam. Any screw holes left from attaching the tank hatch, leaning post, etc. need to be drilled and filled with epoxy. Using 5200 as a bedding compound putting those screws back will prevent water integration in the future. This is the primary reason these tanks go bad in the first place.

Best of luck.
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2005, 07:20 PM
sailcat sailcat is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Stuart, Fl
Posts: 138
Default Re: Fuel tank

Not sure if this has been mentioned. Make sure you have your new tank coated prior to installing. This will stop or at least slow down the effects of saltwater.
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72 20'CC
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2005, 10:16 PM
warthog5 warthog5 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pensacola,Fl.
Posts: 789
Default Re: Fuel tank

Quote:
use a 12" sawlsall blade to cut the foam away from the tank.
I gott'a disagree on this. A leaky tank w/gas saturated in the foam is a bomb waiting to go off, when you include a sawsall.

My methiod has proven itself fast, safe and easy.
Use a blade from and 18in bow saw. [tree trimming saw]
Just the blade and cover one end with cardboard and Duct tape to protect you hand.
This type of blade a VERY agressive teeth and the 18in length will go to the bottom of the hull with ease and not pound the hell out of the hull like a sawsall would.
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2005, 10:22 PM
jedgar jedgar is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cocoa Beach, Fl
Posts: 6
Default Re: Fuel tank

Thanks for the advice / guidance guys.

Deck hatches are out. Yeah, the tank is about 27-7/8" wide.

Even if I cut part of the flanges off both sides, I'm still gonna have a heck of a time cutting out the foam down in the crevice between the stringers and the sides of the tank. The deck proper and fish boxes (part of the deck mold)lap over past the stringers both sides, and I sure don't want to cut out any of the deck or the boxes. Maybe with a flexible blade "keyhole" saw I'll be able to bend the blade around the deck edge and back down into the crevice and cut out the foam. If not, I'll be into a really tough job of cutting up the tank in place and removing it in pieces.
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  #17  
Old 01-25-2005, 07:56 AM
RS RS is offline
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Location: Narragansett Bay, RI
Posts: 399
Default Re: Fuel tank

There is a lot of stuff that eats through foam, depending on it's composition. You might want to try, acetone, MEK, laquer thinner, oven cleaner, paint remover (fiberglass safe of course), etc. I'm not sure what will work, but something might, and that would make the job of tank removal pretty easy.
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  #18  
Old 01-25-2005, 08:03 AM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
gucci
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sailfish Capital, fla
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Default Re: Fuel tank

Hey LT Dan, Where are you

Quote:
A CHAINSAW! I USED AN ELECTRIC CHAINSAW,IT'S EASYER TO CONTROLL THE ELECTRIC THAN GAS. ONCE THE TANK IS EXPOSED,YOU RUN THE SAW CAREFULLY BETWEEN THE STRINGER AND TANK. IT GO'S THROUGH THE FOAM LIKE A HOT KNIFE THROUGH BUTTER. PUT A CROW BAR ON ONE END, AND POP, OUT SHE COME'S. I SWEAR IT ONLY TOOK 15 MINUTE'S AND THE TANK WAS SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. BE SURE TO CONNECT THE FILL TUBE ON YOUR TANK TO THE EXHAUST PIPE OF YOUR CAR(START IT). THE CARBON MONOXIDE WILL ELIMINATE OXOGEN. THEN TAKE ANY OLD HIGH SPEED FAN AND POINT IT AT THE AREA OF SURGURY. DOING THIS IN A WELL VENTALATED AREA'S A GOOD IDEA TOO
LT Dan's Chainsaw thread
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  #19  
Old 01-25-2005, 03:32 PM
strick strick is offline
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Default Re: Fuel tank

More testicular fortitude then I got!!

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  #20  
Old 01-25-2005, 07:29 PM
ocuyler ocuyler is offline
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Default Re: Fuel tank

That post should be inducted in to the CSC Hall of Fame.
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