Forward bulkhead

[jwclbi]

I think maybe that boat sank a few years back as well?? Not total submerged if i recall.

[chriselk]

Well here are some more pictures of the demolition.

[chriselk]

Well here are some more pictures of the demolition. Does not look like much progress, but grinding is slow work.

If just posted a new thread asking for help on tank placement-if folks have moved tanks on a 23 please reply there.

[chriselk]

Still looking for help on tank placement.
I took out the 100 main and the smaller forward aux tank.

My plan for the new 120 gallon tank is to put the back of the tank at the beginning of the the break where the stringers get narrow. That would move the tank around 18 inches or so forward.

IS THIS FORWARD ENOUGH FOR A FLOTATION BRACKET WITH A SINGLE F300? The new transom is coosa and the bulkheads will be foam and the deck Nida core, all epoxied.

[FAS]

lotsa guys go for two tanks on this site,I went with a 112 gal and set it 18" fwd.I can see the benefit of two tanks,but it was not in my plans...

[chriselk]

FAS,
That was about what I was going to do, about 18.
thanks,
c

[chriselk]

Well we have been busy since last post.

First series here are after cleaning out boat to show where we are:

[chriselk]

Next we worked on the transom.
If you recall from an earlier closeup picture of the inside of the transom outer skin, the thickness was different. That is the inside was about 3/8 inch and then it "broke" as it went to about 3/16 inch. Thus the inside was of different thickness and we had to build up the thinner part of the inside skin so the Coosa board would be flush. So we laid up several layers of CSM, some 1708 until we approximated the thickness. Then we Epoxied to outer skin (using Cabosil thickened) applied with notched spreader.
Used two layers of 1 inch Coosa Bluewater 26. The first layer of Coosa was screwed from the outside. The second was screwed from the inside. Holes were drilled in transom and Coosa for screws and for escape of excess epoxy.

In the first picture note the piece of steel we used throughout to keep the transom flat. There is a tendency for the skin to bow. It is a barn door roller track.
We used one on the outside and one on the inside along with a third piece of aluminum.

In the last picture you can see several things. The holes in hull have been patched and two holes got fiberglass blocks as we will reuse the through hulls.
The white remaining parts of the liner with the large deck plate holes have subsequently been cut out as you will see later. You may not be able to see, but we glassed the corners of the transom quite well. First we cabo sealed the crack and made a filet. We have used DB170 for almost all of the glassing. Occasionally 1708. Richard and John are the "kids" doing most of the work on this project. How did I get most of the grinding and the kids get the fun part?

You can also see the jigs from my previous build an ENVI Redfish 16 up on the walls.

[chriselk]

Next up we patched in the notch in the outside of the transom. I had gotten some fiberglass panels from the fine folks at Parker Boats nearby. The panels are cut out from the pilot houses when they install windows. Very strong. So what if my boat has an "organ" from a Parker.

[chriselk]

Filling stringers with foam. We will be raising the deck in two ways. First we are going to lay the deck on top of the inner liner ledge we left (about 2-3 inches). That makes the deck about 3/4 inch higher. We are also using 1.5 inch Plascore (like Nidacore) honeycomb for the deck.

To get the 3/4 inch raised stringers I was originally just going to put the stringers back to original height by pour foam and add a 3/4 nidacore. But Richard said screw that, lets make a dam and pour the foam the additional 3/4 inch. So we did that. You can see the thin plywood dams screwed to the sides of the stringers. To get the height of the dams right, we temporarily screwed into the ledge, ran string across them back and forth. We used that as the deck height and the top of the dams came to the strings. We took the strings down of course to work. In pouring foam, I recommend that you get plenty on hand. You want that foam to expand without voids at the top. Go ahead and waste some, it will make the top flat when you saw it, sand it, shape it. Your stringers will thank you and the glass will lay flat without voids (although some voids are okay).