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#41
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Steve B 1978 23ft SeaCraft Seavette 502HP ZZ502 Mercruiser TRS Drive-Sold-UGH! 1998 28ft Carolina Classic 7.4 Volvo Penta Duo Prop |
#42
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Scott - yes, that was inside the lagoon - I was sure it was a seafari, just curious that it didn't have the name - do like the top
Nick - Thanks much for the pix, man! It's curious, but right away I spotted more variations - your seat assembly seems to be integral to the floor, and to the sides - scroll up and take a closer look at mine - the seat box assembly is seperate from the floor and the sides, slopes in on the sides... also your floor gas tank hatch extends farther back than mine... the forward front wall of the seat box/splashell assembly, on mine where it falls down to the floor, is screwed into a lip that rises up off the floor pan - inside the hull, behind that lip, is a piece of approx 1x3 glassed into the floor pan assembly across the width... I like the bomar hatch in the splashwell - what size ? I was thinking of doing the same, but couldn't find a decent size to fit my splashwell, and give the size, access, that I wanted.... but now I'm seriously thinking of dropping a bomar hatch into the floor, in front of the seatbox assembly, giving access down into the hull, and mounting twin batteries down there, behind the gas tank.. more winter plotting.... Bill |
#43
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Interesting ... again. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
It's a guess, but your boat with the shorter gas tank hatch has the layout ready for and I/O or outboard setup. The wider I/O motor cover appears to lay over that imprint on your deck. What size tank do you have? Mine is the larger 47 gal tank. The spec page states 38 gal with the I/O. I wonder what Fr Franks deck looks like? Mine or yours? I will get the measurements of the Bomar hatch i installed tonight. It is a tight fit with the batteries below it in the splashwell with the switch between. You can mount the switch inside one of the rear boxes to give you more room. I am not sure if i would cut this type of hatch into your deck to locate the batteries. If you did, the gas tank would be directly forward of the batteries and the battery would be low in the bilge with the tops being at the same height of the deck and tank. I like my place better in that the height is higher, the battery shelf is on top of the stringers. So bottom of batteries are close to the level of the deck which puts them higher than the tank. It probably does not make much diff though, just a false sence of security that the batteries are mounted higher in the event of deck flooding. But thats why we are typing and feel that this boat needs; - Raise the rear boxes and square off to gunnel height - Place a battery on each side at deck height inside the rear deck boxes with access door opening inside towards the deck. (of course you could move the batteries in the cuddy to lighten the rear, i am not sure why i am not excited about that?)Top of boxes can be used for various storage or small livewell? - Glass in through hull scuppers and raise the deck to make it self bailing and pitch towards middle out through the transom. - Add a sealing deck hatch in the middle between the rear boxes for access to the dual bilge pumps. - Make a splash door between the rear boxes. That it ... pretty simple ... now get to work! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] - Nick |
#44
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I measured the Bomar hatch O.D. at ~24" x ~14".
I believe it is this one that they call a 10" x 20" I.D.; Bomar inspection hatch - Nick [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] |
#45
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Nick - I like your list - and this discussion -
interesting on the size of your hatch in the splashwell - I don't think I could fit that size in my splashwell - will measure tonight a problem I have with duplicating your battery location, is that I put the knee of the center stringer up to the transom, and I don't regret the knee, I considered that crucial, but to the port side of it, I only have about 5 inches before hitting the fishbox... more and more I think that needs to come out - but I like the boxes, with above deck battery locations better, so pull the fishbox, build the boxes... but I don't want to build boxes the full depth of the seats - I think I'll lose too much room in the back, building those boxes out that far - I think maybe the seat boxes need to be cut back about 4 - 6 - 8 inches (?) but that eaves the existing splashwell sticking out - so do a wrap around splashwell height extender... or rebuild the splashwell area like in Peter's.... My gas tank extends back well past the floor hatch - I had the floor hatch off this summer, while doing the transom, and you can't access the fill hose connection with the hatch off, short of lifting up the forward end of the tank and sliding the whole tank forward - so I'm guessing I've got the 47 gal tank (???). Curiouser and curiouser.... I'm betting your splashwell is a good bit wider than mine - I'll take a measurement at the front, between the two seat lids - and come back with that. Bill |
#46
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20" transom, two batteries under the starboard aft seat. Kicker is a '72 Chrysler 9.9, on a bracket that goes up & down, and is the original kicker sold w/ the boat when it was new back in '72. Looks like hell, but still runs. I test it now and then, and may even push the boat with it for half an hour or so, but I keep it running just in case of dire need. I have a SeaTow membership as well. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft ![]() (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
#47
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Fr. Frank - thanks for the input !! I'm gonna guess the weight of the two batteries on the starboard side is offset by the kicker probably mounted on the port ? Is the kicker linked to the main engine for steering ?
Nick - I did some measurements - there is no way I could get the bomar hatch you have, inside my splashwell. I have 25" in width from seat edge to seat edge, and only 23" inside the splashwell at it's widest point up forward. If you look at the picture of mine, the plate I put in, over the hole I cut during construction, is only 16"x10". I gotta guess you definitely have a larger, wider, splashwell than mine. Also measured my seats, extension forward - they are 19.5" - I don't think I want to box up from the full seat, gonna lose too much space in the rear of the boat - I wonder what the depth is on that 20CC transom box ? 10 - 12", maybe 14", is my guess. Would be interesting to know. Bill |
#48
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on the topic of brackets, and being able to close up the stern - in the photos page, on the Seafari thread, someone found and posted this interesting, short bracket installation - still requires a short transom notch to enable full motor tilt, but then the short bracket doesn't impart anywhere near the leverage load of a standard length bracket
This would be interesting, and then the possibilities on redoing the stern interior become much more open... ![]() anyone know if that's a commercially available bracket, or a custom made ??? Bill |
#49
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Stainless Marine makes brackets with a 9" and 12" setback.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4577852827&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT |
#50
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Thanks, man ! that to me is the power of this internet thing, sharing info with each other is way too cool - a board like this can beat google anyday.
Now - I wonder what a 9", or maybe a 12", setback bracket would do for me - and I don't know much about brackets, other than my bro's boat has a full size one, which I don't really want to do - that's alot of leverage hangin off there. love any input ! Bill |
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