Thru bolt hull to top - advice wanted

[FELLOW-SHIP]

When I did my boat I pulled the cap off the boat to replace all the balsa lamination. When I put it back on the boat it was kind a like putting a plastic top on a Tupperware container it’s a snug fit. I used a crowbar it different places to assist me in this process. I didn’t have any areas that didn’t match up with the original holes of the cap and hull either. But if you did you will find many that would match up and I would put your screws in those first and then work from those locations all around the boat. As for new screws I replaces approx 20% with new ones due to either rust on being a little bent or the top stripping out a little. We all need to remember that stainless doesn’t mean STAIN FREE. As for the sealant 5200 is the way to go as Hermco said.


FellowShip

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My motto: Just for the Grins [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[TUGBOAT]

Did I mention # 10's as above,I don't think I kept an old screw,cleat anything.Went in a Jug & tossed.You shouldn't have a problem removing all the screws.Make sure that You do get them all !I missed eXactly which 20 Ya have SF / MA ? After I put the rubrail on I used the QUICK dry'n sealant under the bottom edge.A lot less runny as this can get Messy !TAPE the hull too. I used besides screws Machine Screws washers & Nylon lock nuts Easy to remove Years later!
Tug [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[willydewitt2]

I have a 20' master angler 1976. I had the cap off and put back on with 5200 the whole way around. I through bolted every 6 inches with #10 machine screws, washers and nylon locknuts, I then ran a bead of 4200 around the outside bottom of the cap/hull joint and smoothed it out with the backside of a plastic spoon. It all came out great and the boat feels like never before, no chatter or any noises whatsoever. I think I overdid it, but maybe thats the way everything should be done on a boat, OVERDONE.

[dsharp]

able1111, if the hull and cap are still bonded I would leave it alone. Lifecaulk is fine, we used it at the boatyard for years. The only thing I would rec. is to drill and tap the fiberglass, then flat washer and nylock nuts. You can get a 3 piece tap set from morse and use the starter tap then the main tap. You won't need the bottom tap but I don't think they make a 2 tap set. Just put a little caulk on the threads and under the head and it will be plenty strong. If you're worried about it go from a #10 to #12 flat head ss screw. Remember the joint has to be tight before you tap. You can use a slow speed drill on the tapping. Afine thread fastener will work better imho

[abl1111]

Got it. A question: if I am using a bolt, why would I need to tap the hole ? Wouldn't it be just as good to use a drill bit that snugly fits the #10 SS bolt ?

And, what is your feeling about pulling the current, old screws, re-screwing new ones in and then thru bolting between each of the screws ? Or, should I just pull the old screws and bolt thru those holes ?

Thx to you and all the other people who have chimed in. I appreciate your advice.

[Ikan Besar]

I think I overdid it, but maybe thats the way everything should be done on a boat, OVERDONE.

agreed!

[TUGBOAT]

Put New screws in New holes You can use the bolts thru the Old screww holes.I put the screws in backed them out then screwed them Home !Tap ? I felt that the same size holes as the bolts would not PULL the 2 halves together as tight.

[dsharp]

able, If the fit is snug there is nothing wrong with just driving the screws in. If you can drive the screws in without stripping the heads out you don't have to tap them. As brad pointed out if everything is not pulled up tight if you thread it it's not going to pull up snugly. It just makes the job a little easier to get the washers and nuts on if you don't have to worry about shoving the bolt back through. If you use a self locking nut it's going to turn into a two man job anyway. If the the old screws aren't bent or it doesn't look like the joints been working I don't think you need to worry about adding more fasteners unless you're going to the flemish cap in october.

[GradySailfish]

Hey abl111, I see your from Long Island. Where from the Island are you. I'm in the Baldwin Harbor/Freeport area.
I woulden't mind giving you a hand with your project. I have a 78' 20 Master Angler I just bought an will rebuild.

Interesting topic about the topcap. I was on the boat today thinking about what I'm going to do to her when I realize just how weak the washboard and gunnels are on the topcap. I plan on doing what Capt. Brad did, i.e. remove the cap, add a 1/2 inch marine ply core inside and reglass to make it solid. The way it is not, I can grab the recessed bow rail, shake it and move the enitre cap. In addition to making a core, I want to put "ribs" in between the inside of the cap and the hull...glass those suckers in there along with the cap. ADd 5200 sealant around as well, AND through BOLT everywhere I can. That should make for a ultra solid rig......ala floating brick shi*thouse.

I was thinking of spacing the ribs every two feet.