Transom Rebuild

[alejmend]

Started to take apart the transom. Had some fun with the a crobar. The previous owner raised the the transom 5" the cheap way. They built up the 5" using wood and fiberglass. We'll after a few whacks with the crobar the 5" raise came flying out.


Notice the rotten wood sandwiched between the layers of fiberglass.

Here's another shot.



Here's a shot of the big steel plate that was on the outside and inside of the transom.




Question for you guys. In this picture how is the "A" part attached to the transom? Is it epoxyed to the transom core? I saw CSC board member "Will" cut out the inside as depicted by the red lines. Just curious how difficult it its to remove the section labeled "A". I know i need to remove the screws attaching the inner liner to the hull.



Thanks.

[strick]

Yes mine was. They bonded the liner to the transom with cabosil. It was hard to get out. But you can do it. Have you decided to do away with the seats?

strick

[alejmend]

the plan is to leave the seats in. I am just debating if i should fix the transom from the inside or the outside. From the post i have read it seems that inside job is better. Just curious if it was feasible to to remove the liner if i cut where i marked, or if the "a" panels would be ruined if i tried removing them from the transom.

[EBEACH]

Yes, Here is a picture of my 20 sceptre PHOTO

and like strick said, they used deck and hull putty on the back side where you marked it with an "A"

I was able to get a small bottle jack inside under the seat area and that is what finally got it to pop.

[WillyC]

On my boat they used thickened resin/putty on the backsides of your "A" area as well as the very top edge of the transom. It was very difficult to remove this putty from the transom wall but it can be done. I hacked away at the putty from the bottom and from the sides using a whole array of tools including various chisels, extra long screwdrivers and the long straight tire iron that came with my chevy truck.

[alejmend]

Thanks for the reply guys. EBEACH-great pictures. Will, do you have any more pictures of your project?

[alejmend]

Got to spend the weekend working on the 20'. Started to take the rotted core out of the hatches.



I also decided to check out the fuel tank. The previous owner replaced it in the mid 90's so i thought it would be a good shape. Boy was i wrong. Here are some shots of the fuel hatch. The floor is in good shape, it was glassed over and is solid. The tank was sitting on some rubber mats. And foamed into place. Had some fun with the machete whacking the foam out.

mulch anyone?

As i inspected the tank, it looked like it was in good condition, at least the sides and top. Then I started to wipe the bottom down and then this happened!!!

looks like i'll need a new tank.... Luckily the fuel was only about 2.5 gallons above the hole, and i can put it in a jerry can.

Well I am glad i found this out now.

[JohnB]

IMHO, looks like 2 problems with the gas tank.
1. Poor drainage, from the color of the glass, my guess is water has been laying in the bottom of the boat.
2. Rubber, that is carbon/petrol based is a bad idea against a gas tank. Putting it up on strips is a good idea, but don't use that type of rubber when you put it back in. There are many ideas about gas tank mounting. I think putting the tank on 1/8-1/4"x2" strips of soft poly or synthetic rubber strips, running lengthwise, with 4" spacing between, allows for water/condensation to drain out. I am going to put foam in the front and back corners of the tank to keep it from shifting around.

[Gary Hill]

Use Interlux 2001 after cleaning the new tank onthe ouside and 3-4 coats or whatever you mix use it all, it's for alum. boats and then glue some silicon rubber on should last a real long time.

[Blue197320]

blueseacraft any new progress on the transon rebuild? are u going to be doing the fordeck in ur boat as well as those hatches??